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呂家慶 26551萬字 84545人讀過連載

此行之初，只是想騎行新藏線。并不曾對“自駕”和“大北線”做功課。后來旅途中有變，大北線便成了這次旅行中精彩的一段。這次行程，大概可分三個階段： 1、結伴騎行新藏線（喀什--康西瓦）。 2、千里走單騎（有騎行的日子，也有搭車的日子，紅柳灘--塔欽） 3、自駕大北線。對新藏線的心動，來自以下描述：新藏線起點為新疆葉城，終點為西藏拉孜的國道，全程2140千米。路況介紹：它是世界上最艱險的公路之一。它穿越舉世聞名的昆侖山、喀喇昆侖山、崗底斯山、喜馬拉雅山，翻越１６個冰大坂，涉４４條冰河，全線經過的大部份地段為“無人區”。平均海拔4500米以上,是世界上海拔最高、道路最險、路況極差和環境最惡劣的高原公路。這就是新藏公路，也被稱作國道２１９線。關于新藏線的順口溜：　“行車新藏線，不亞蜀道難。庫地大坂險，猶似鬼門關；麻扎大坂尖，陡升五千三；黑卡大坂旋，九十九道灣；界山大坂彎，伸手可摸天……”這段順口溜，這是新藏線艱險的真實寫照。從葉城往阿里海拔相差很大，一天之內可以從海拔數百米的新疆地段上升到五千余米的麻扎大坂路段，對幾乎所有旅行者的身體素質而言是極大的考驗和困難，高寒缺氧、雪崩塌方、高山反應、多變的氣候及確確實實的風餐露宿等困難，已經超過了許多常人的承受極限. 后來在‘狼塔夏特群’里，正好聽到南京的好人鍋講到要騎行此線，心念一動，便加入了。于是有了2011年4月下旬出發的這次旅行。裝備篇資深的網上很多，不多說，略曬下自己的行前準備，留個念想吧。---我的戰馬：衣物：（長袖速干衣褲、沖鋒衣褲、抓絨衣褲、羽絨服、溯溪鞋、高幫登山鞋等）睡袋、帳篷、防潮墊、馱包、彈力繩：修車工俱、備胎（內胎3條，外胎一條）及配件、爐俱等邊防證、身份證、手套、雪套、護膝、雨衣等藥品：（后來又添了速效救心丸、氨茶堿、速尿片等。高原長途旅行，這幾種藥很有用。）折騰了大半天來整理行囊，書房被搞的滿地狼籍，難以下腳。一半裝備都整理進馱包了，忽然想起應該給它們合張影。懶得再掏出馱包里的裝備，就這樣來一張裝備們的全家福吧：全部打完包，去鐵通托運車子，整裝待發…… 2011年4月25日晚，背起行囊出發了，又是一個人。駕車到火車站，再火車、飛機，一路輾轉，路上小磕絆不斷：火車晚點急得我跳腳，甩錢雇車飛奔、跳下車我也狂奔才趕上飛機。飛機上不幸又遭臨座的維族小朋友騷擾，還沒斷奶的兩歲小男孩不斷地把我的上衣撩起，又或者直接把領口拉到肩膀下…… 維族小男孩的媽媽笑觀不語，本人尷尬之極，又不忍責備小孩，后來空姐看不下去把我領走和乘務人員們同坐。再轉機，行李被人拿錯，折騰半天。一個人行走，自由+亂糟糟，無語。終于26日下午16時許到烏魯木奇，與南京的好人鍋、戊名匯合；趁轉機喀什的空閑，三人打的（機場大巴每人20元，打的劃算共花費36元）直奔烏市，找了戊名要吃的大盤雞、卡瓦斯美餐一頓再轉回機場；終于在晚上0時前到了如家酒店，與青蛙匯合。此次騎行的四個隊員全部見面了，于我，是初次見到他們三個南京哥。 4月27日，大家先去喀什火車站提車：左起：戊名、青蛙、我、好人鍋。 4個人騎著各自的戰馬，浩浩蕩蕩去采買物資。不想路上竟被一維族男子盯梢，聯系近段喀什剛發生的幾起血腥事件和敏感沖突，大家一時都有些緊張。山羊戶外店的老板更是讓我們直接報警（一路采買幾經比較，喀什的幾個戶外店，山羊戶外貨全價廉）。幾個人一合計，冒然報警無憑無據有些唐突，遂決定我和戊名一小組，先行沖出；好人鍋和青蛙斷后，負責掩護。于是緊張行動，嘿呀，一路急沖，結果回賓館的路上兩組人馬繞岔了道，我和戊名在賓館附近怎么也等不見好人鍋和青蛙，擔心老半天。好在有驚無險，都平安回到酒店。于是晚上也不敢出去亂溜達了，乖乖在房間睡覺。反偷拍：一路跟蹤我們的少年：采買物資途中，青蛙剃度了：（此后青蛙哥的習慣動作就是摸光頭！而好人鍋則是有空就手機上網直線轉播他的新藏線呵）好人鍋和戊名來之前就理成了短短的寸頭，加上青蛙這個大光頭，三個人互相炫耀著，害的我真想也剃個光頭上路！羨慕嫉妒，只能將自己的一頭長發剪成短馬尾扎起來了事。回到酒店，我們開始整理馱包和車，看著滿地的物件，四人都感頭大---竟然如此之多！三個男士照顧我，讓我獨自去一個房間整理，他們仨絆絆搭搭擠在一處整理。我的物資來之前基本準備完善，采購極少，如何裝備也大多是出發前就各有其位的，所以很快結束戰斗。跑過去看他們三個，呵呵，熱鬧啊，房間簡直象個大倉庫了！堆的滿地東西幾乎無從下腳。于是幫著打個下手，待得快整好了才想起，拍照留念！戊名：心靈手巧，為人厚道，說話不多但總是為大家做的多。正在用他換下來的舊外胎幫我做擋泥板，DIY的比買來的實用多了！好人鍋（右）：勇敢樂觀，有毅力、有智謀。我們此行的路書都是他辛苦整理，備用藥品的方子也是他給的，多謝??！這家伙不想整那一大堆東西，不時嘻哈著兩邊房間視查，看大家都整的差不多了，才不得已地把自己那份也整了。采買的無人區備用20斤大米，大部分都被他塞進馱包了，連保溫壺都塞滿了！青蛙：曾經是8年野戰軍的老兵，很有戰斗力，體力好心態好 dao嘴豆腐心，有時象英勇的戰士有時卻象個稚氣未脫的孩子。大家的20個氣罐，被他大包大攬地綁在車后，后來綁完看著那高聳的李行，我們三個無言…… 能干的青蛙在搓繩子，以應付那過于龐大的行李堆（青蛙面前，戊名的馱包已裝整齊了，蛙哥的行李卻還一大堆在窗根等繩子捆）：我只能自保，負擔了自己的所有物資后加負了三個氣罐。其它公用物資他們三個男士全包了。無言以謝。背后那片建筑，是喀什的老城區：喀什的公交車讓我們大開眼界---- 竟然會按一個個詳細地點送客到家?。]事閑逛還好，有事公交坐不得，太費時間）。所以我們三個從機場晃到酒店用時頗久，青蛙在酒店等我們等得都睡著了。 D1：4月28日，晴，喀什--英吉沙，全程柏油，騎行73km。 2011年4月28日，我們開始騎行的日子。原計劃從葉城G219 零公里處開始騎，后來大家整理完，看著那大大的行李包，一致決定從喀什開始騎。不論是隊員之間、還是車、行李都需要磨合。今天的騎行并不多，從喀什到英吉沙，70km的路（碼表實際顯示73km）。所以大家慢悠悠吃完早飯，又把昨天打包精減出來的行李到郵局寄走，11點半，才開騎。喀什的如家酒店門外，四匹戰馬一溜排開，整裝待發：一路行來，照片繁多，除自己拍的，還有青蛙、好人鍋、以及后來邂逅的袁鵬、五位自駕兄長等人所拍，恕不一一注，謝了！戊名秀一個：好人鍋也來秀一下：青蛙那一刻的片片竟然找不到，汗。上315國道：向英吉沙進軍：在路上，我們將生命綻放：中午，新彊戈壁的地表溫度有35--37度，很熱。來這里前一周剛做過一個小手術（沒跟隊友們講怕他們擔心），有個把月沒碰過車了，騎的有點累。曬的很厲害，發現之前怕太熱而備用的網眼手套抗不住曬，手背都被曬得又疼又紅了，青蛙把他的備用白線手套讓我換上。騎啊騎，又熱又渴又累，突然發現一處小賣店，竟然還有綠色的樹幾棵，四人狂奔過去，乘涼、補水：回復軍行天下的帖子啊？？我這里看到的圖片，挺小。第一次發貼，很多不太會操作，諒！我試試改午飯在一小鎮吃，青菜拉條子，份足味美價廉，可惜四人只顧說笑鬧騰，忘了拍照。烤羊肉串：賣相好，味道也不錯。不過肉不是我的強項，一串便足矣。后來每人一個的羊肉包子，也貢獻給了好人鍋。看到傳說中的缸子肉（當時酷熱，沒食欲，更不知那就是大名鼎鼎的“缸子肉”。后來自駕大北線，與幾位兄弟在阿里吃到，才知道。其貌不揚，但甚是美味！）：擺一張吧，騎了大半天了，挺累挺悶的?？蓱z好人鍋，總是在為我們拍照，這一路攝影他最辛苦：傍晚，英吉沙到了：我們住了天府賓館。本想宿縣委賓館，但有山東援藏的一大幫人包住，滿了。晚飯男生們一致提議不吃拉條子了，要吃川菜。呵呵這還沒幾天呢，就受不了啦。我倒無所謂，食物對我來說，挑剔極少。這天晚上，聽了青蛙的故事。很意外…… 今日亮點：出發前，好人鍋因為我不肯聽他的話好好吃藥，大為光火?？墒?象鍋那樣沒病也大把的吃藥，讓我和青蛙大為驚訝！什么“十全大補丸、六味地黃丸、板藍根、21金維它……” 適當維生素補充還能接受，其它的藥，對我這個平時極少用藥的人，真是吃不下。為此鍋很不高興，拉著臉半天不搭理我。后來又訓我“看你臉色臘黃的，一看就知道氣血不足、營養不良！還不好好吃藥，哼！”我哭笑不得，這只可惱又可愛的鍋。他的口頭禪就是：“沒事就吃藥哎”。戊名是好人鍋的忠實聽眾，跟著大把吃藥。青蛙則我行我素，幾乎不吃藥。騎行新藏線，需要如此藥補？？？不過，好人鍋昨天晚上訓我，讓我出發前把他列出的藥品清單補全，倒是真訓對了。有兩味藥，后來還真救了我的急。騎行新藏線，藥品是應該備齊全點。 D2：4月29日，英吉沙--莎車，晴轉大沙塵暴，戊名碼表計算里程133公里，總耗時約12小時.騎行第二天，狀態很差的一天。今天的目的地是莎車，計劃行程130km（實際碼表顯示近133km）。大家早早起床，洗漱早飯后準備出發，但戊名找不到寶貝香煙，要開拔了好人鍋又死活找不見墨鏡。折騰到9點也沒找見，我們只得載著大馱包跟著好人鍋滿大街轉想找個賣眼鏡的店另買一副，可惜都沒開門營業。他備用的那副又在馱包里面層層圍困不好拿出。這個天府賓館真是有問哦。眼看日已高升，今天路程還不少，惦著早出發早歇腳，于是停車從馱包里翻騰出自己的備用墨鏡給鍋，催他快出發。四人依次排開，列隊而行。我和戊名騎行在前，后來騎著騎著，拐個彎發現后面那倆人不見了！與戊名下車等，久候方至，原來好人鍋看到了英吉莎的小 dao鋪子，與青蛙挑選刀去了。當然也幫我和戊名各挑了一把。話說這英吉沙縣位于新疆塔里木盆地西部邊緣,是著名的“中國小 dao之鄉”也是“中國色買提杏之鄉”、“中國達瓦孜之鄉”。新疆有四大名刀，即英吉沙工藝小刀、伊犁沙木薩克折dao、焉耆陳正套刀和莎車買買提折dao。英雄愛寶刀，既然他倆是尋刀而去，回來還不忘我和戊名的份，嘿嘿，等就等了，這種等待可以有哈！等久點也沒關系。反正出來是旅行，不是單純為了傻騎車，這種民族特色的東西，早該好好品味一番，若不是時間限制，團隊限制，估計我早跑去刀鋪晃蕩了…… 美滋滋地收好青蛙給的精美小 dao，這回我不傻往前沖了，省得有好玩的又落下，咱壓陣！不緊不慢騎在隊伍后面，和青蛙天南海北亂侃著，青蛙同學得了好刀也一路心花怒放的，不時還來點音樂，樂聲下仍不忘刀長刀短的。不知不覺騎出老遠閑等兩位尋寶刀的英雄時，給自己的坐騎留一張：此時它尚容光煥發，往后長路漫漫不知它會滄桑成何等模樣啊途經小店補水，此時四人尚衣帽光鮮、容光煥發，不久便一個個灰頭土臉無一幸免了。難得的一張全體合影：（看此時那特意選的寬松速干褲在腿上直打晃蕩，哪里想到半個月后竟然浮種到腿塞不進褲子，唉，失算呀！滿以為騎新藏線會越騎越瘦身材更苗條，哪承想還有肥腫的象個非洲阿巴桑那一出！哈哈，好笑）民族團結，與維族朋友合張：繼續前行，到中午3點那陣（相當于北京時間1點左右，有2小時的時差）又困又累，越騎越覺得腿軟，膝蓋越來越痛，看好人鍋、戊名早已護膝上腿，顧不得熱捂，趕緊也把兩副厚厚的護膝帶上。路那么漫長無盡頭、太陽那么曬、PP磨得好痛怎么騎都難受…… 青蛙本來是個騎行高手，讓他這樣慢悠悠地曬在大太陽下陪我，陪得他簡直崩潰。于是換戊名來跟在我身后收尾，肯定跟的也很難受。雖然他倆都沒說，但感覺到那種收隊的痛苦，奈何俺那陣子就是蹬不動車，速度怎么也提不上來，還老想打盹瞌睡。熬啊熬，總算到了克孜勒庫爾干鄉，吃午飯，借機緩一緩。發現維族人其實很愛干凈，小小鄉間餐廳衛生也蠻不錯。羊肉揪面片：（飯菜的片片，多出自好人鍋和青蛙之手，俺是極少拍滴，只顧吃了嘿嘿）飯后再往前騎不久，天色漸變，陽光沒了，天空灰起來：天更灰蒙，風大、沙重了，沙塵暴漸露猙獰：大沙塵暴來了！風越來越大，沙土滿天飛，天空已成灰黃色，能見度不足百米，車輛都開著警示燈或大燈通行。青蛙看時間也不早了，行軍速度太慢照此下去天黑前到不了目的地，于是發狠話：“20公里休息一次！不能再象前段那樣每小時休息一次了?！毖援吳嗤芨Z出去追好人鍋和戊名去了，三個男生狂飆而去很快不見蹤影，把我扔在后面也不管了（其實現在想來，是該這么扔一下，否則我還是不長進），之前跟我說的什么二人小組不拋棄不放棄也不執行了，任我獨自在漫漫黃沙天昏地暗中苦苦掙扎。從未帶著大馱包騎行過的我，感覺那大大的馱包太重了，簡直象個大稱砣一樣拖在身后！行李象背山越載越重，車蹬的幾乎耗盡腿上所有力氣，狂風刮得我腦子里呼呼轟鳴，四周一片迷茫不見天日。我拼力蹬啊蹬啊……身體很累，腦瓜卻不停地東想西想胡思亂想，思想這東西有時候真是害人。等熬到到100公里4人匯合休息時，風沙略減，但大家還是不敢摘掉面巾，一張嘴說話嘴里就跑進沙子磕著牙，滿鼻子的沙土味。籍著帽子面巾遮掩，不覺間淚濕蒙面圍巾。一直低著頭不出聲，以為籍著帽沿蒙面圍巾遮掩沒人知道自己哭了，卻還是被鍋發現了。他坐來旁邊，碰碰我的腳，平時一直吊兒浪當、冷嘲熱諷的腔調突然變的很和氣了：“姑娘，累了吧？圍巾都濕了？？沒關系，慢慢騎，別心急……”心里一熱，趕緊掩飾地笑笑，朗聲答：“沒事！放心吧。風沙太大迷眼了?！痹偻?望四周，依舊漫天狂風大沙、昏天黑地，自己一個人孤零零漂在千里之外，與初識的三個陌生人累死累活行走在這異域邊彊，累了痛了難過了都無從說，只能忍忍忍！想著突然悲從中來，不出聲可眼淚刷刷流的更厲害，嘴唇快咬破了也止不住。車子加上大馱包還是抵不住大風，被吹翻在地，也顧不上管，只是低著頭流淚。三個男生被嚇住了，不敢多說。青蛙過來跟我說話，我小心眼地惱著他，也不搭理。他只好默默地幫我扶起車子放好，坐在一邊，不時扭頭看過來車子被大風吹倒了俺也不去管，只顧翹著二郞腿掉豆豆，青蛙去扶起俺可憐的戰馬：（當時不知壞心肝的鍋竟然在偷拍此景，臭小子）哭了一陣，感覺輕松多啦，大家也準備繼續前行，還有40km路要趕，此時天已快黑。起身推起車子翻身騎上就往前沖，這一停一哭，倒把力氣哭出來了。可能不適應期也過了，蹬的飛快，一路竟然3*6甚至3*7狂沖，把三個男生遠遠甩在后面。青蛙氣喘喘地趕上來，跟我說話我還是不想出聲，又很快超過自行遠去，一個人在千里之外的大風沙中想東想西，邊騎邊哭……現在回想，慚愧又好笑，但當時卻怎么也轉不過彎來。于是這剩下的40km，就在我的狂蹬中順利結束---莎車到了！晚上21點許，比預計的提前了一個多小時。事實證明，當時青蛙的決策是完全正確的。否則我們還不知要在黑夜中的沙塵暴里苦累到什么時候才能歇下，更甚者那種天氣夜晚行車危險因素多多。事實還證明，人都是有潛力的，需要適當激發。熬過那100公里，后面的40公里俺竟然載著大馱包騎的飛快ye！呵呵莎車到了：（坐會吧，騎累了也哭累了）這天，對每個隊員都是一個適應吧，載重、大沙塵暴，一個個象土人似的折騰了一整天。入住好人鍋早打聽好的德隆大酒店，條件很是不錯，惜無電梯，一樓亦無房，只好把車連馱包一起扛上二樓去---青蛙是主力軍。事后青蛙哥講：騎車沒騎累，那幾趟扛車可是真累趴了！呵呵大伙一致提議出去喝一杯，犒勞一下大沙塵暴。今天騎行約8小時，從出發到入住總耗時12小時。今日亮點：1、大馱包+大戈壁+大沙塵暴，別樣味道、別樣體驗。 2、漫天狂風沙中，邊哭邊騎，回想真好笑。自己的攤子還是自己收吧。自那一哭后，開始發飆，結伴同騎的13天每騎必在前，不再落后拖大家。回復心靈孤旅的帖子曾與好人鍋同行半個月，后來的流浪日子，便是自己獨行亂闖了，見笑到莎車已是暮色深沉，人困馬乏并未夜游，第二天一早又急著趕路，也未能將她的芳容細賞，留下遺憾，給下次再去一個借口吧。莎車縣居住著莎車古國先民的后裔，他們注定與音符有關，與木卡姆結緣。因為有河的存在；也因為有沉默巍峨的喀喇昆侖山，河、山、平原、峽谷這些剛烈的靈魂與柔弱的水交織在一起，就有了木卡姆與阿曼尼沙汗懷抱的那把都塔爾。在莎車有名的十二木卡姆廣場，矗立著這位酷愛音樂、拯救木卡姆命運的傳奇女子阿曼尼沙汗的雕像，它已經成為一種象征，也是莎車縣的地性建筑。莎車在年輪奏響的序曲里，拖拽著葉爾羌汗國的靈動音符，哪怕在莎車緩慢地踱一會步，隱約而又清晰的“十二木卡姆”曲調隨時都會傳入耳膜?！　?深夜，窗外依舊有音符飛揚著，使人們有恍若隔世的感覺。　　洗去沙塵躺在床上，我早忘了白天的苦痛，又沉浸在對明天旅程的期盼中。一如詩人納瓦依所作：“芳容乍睹，就使我一見傾心；做你情人，無疑災難纏身。多少次我決心對你斷絕癡念，可日復一日對你更為癡心（節選自十二木卡姆第二套．小賽勒克）。 ”是呵，對于旅行，我又何嘗不是一見傾心，愛到極深；雖然時有苦痛纏身，卻，日復一日，對它更加癡心……　　　　 D3：4月30日，莎車--葉城，晴，沙塵暴轉小有風，今天實際騎行戊名碼表計騎行74公里從莎車到葉城的騎行，相比昨天輕松多了。四個人睡到自然醒，起來看天，沙塵暴轉小，也沒什么大逆風，由莎車縣至澤普縣再至葉城縣僅約70公里，全程柏油，海拔較平無大幅上升下降，大家心里都很輕松。磨蹭到上午近10點才吃好早餐，好人鍋宣布再睡個回籠覺！我和青蛙睡不著便開始整行李，鑒于我昨天的表現，青蛙不聲不響拿走了我縛在馱包外的帳篷和3個氣罐，至此，20個備用氣罐全在青蛙的車上載著。沒過幾天翻達坂的時候，青蛙又把我的備用外胎綁在了他的高高的一堆行李上。帳篷和外胎這一綁，就幫我載到了阿里！四個人里，經常和我吵架拌嘴甚至翻臉的是青蛙，但幫我最多的，也是青蛙。四人不緊不慢一番磨蹭直至12點半光景才出發。自昨日那一場大風沙，那一哭后，俺氣力大發，一路3·7檔位甚至3·8檔位騎過來，很少變換其它檔位，真有‘風飛揚’之勢哈，害的戊名他們狂追不及，又不放心我一人跑在前，沖我叫停了好幾次！（當然俺也知道長途騎行這種騎法不可取，偶爾為之吧）先經澤普縣，再到葉城：初時尚有小風沙迷漫：后來便晴空萬里了：澤普到了：([]

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熱帶叢林國家里，有著淳樸的民風、湛藍的大海、神奇的建筑，這里是亞洲赤道部分，屬于熱帶季風氣候，終年高溫多雨。對于吳哥窟的敬仰，瑯勃拉邦的憧憬，越南越美的期待，在心里早已萌生沖動。但手指肌腱的斷裂，日本友人“河源啟一郎”自行車的丟失，讓平靜的生活，變得厄運連綿，導致計劃無限延期。二次手術過后，為逃脫找個理由，背起包包、拿起相機，踏上征途，讓所謂的霉運，緊跟遠征的步伐，讓它煙飛灰滅。而重新行走在路上，卻是種勇氣的堅持，因為我知道，明天即將不在年輕，也是自我內心激烈斗爭后的抉擇，也許我們可以失去所有，但對自由的信仰依舊無法改變。而這次東南亞之行，有著里程碑式的意義，懷著忐忑不安的心情，踏上了第一次出境的道路。從南寧出境、西雙版納入境，橫跨四個國家，也是對其文化、地理、歷史等全方位的了解，增加的是眼界，豐富的是知識，也是對生命的一次逾越及挑戰。通過Couchsurfing來行走，也是一種全新的旅行嘗試，尋找免費住宿的Host，融入當地人的生活之中，由他們的指引，可以更加便捷地了解其城市精髓，芽莊的歡樂、西貢的喧囂、高棉的微笑，都傳遞著湄公河兩岸，最真實的生活寫照。有些事現在不做，一輩子就沒有機會再做，等有錢了再去旅行，等有時間再去旅行，歲月就在等待中流逝，有了錢未必有時間，有了時間未必有錢，有了錢有了時間，也許已步入花之甲年，有了錢有了時間，又未必會有好身體，未來就是個未知數，人生苦短，何不趁著年輕、趁著沒有家庭的責任的時候，然后收拾行裝奔向遠方，讓世界留下自己的腳印，用相機定格瞬間，留給年邁后的子孫。當我們不去旅行，我們就無法知道外面的世界，是如此豐富而精彩。世界是本書，它讓我們快樂，也使我們悲傷，它讓我們思考，也交我們成長，不旅行的人只看到其中的一頁，不出去走走看看，你就會以為這就是世界。而真正意義的旅行，是從一個人上路開始，因為只有獨處的時候，才能面對內心純粹的自己，方能了解生命的本真。而周圍的人們，更多的是對獨自旅行，抱以嗤之以鼻的態度，認為這是孤獨且無趣的行為，他們更情愿扎堆申報旅行團。完全被傳統思想所禁錮。而獨自旅行，能給予精神上巨大的財富，鍛煉獨立精神、增長自身閱歷、了解地理文化，它其實就是最完美的素質教育。人在旅途中，選擇最便宜的交通方式，每到一座城市，為了節省旅宿費，背著大包小包，挨家挨戶討價還價，是對精神及肉體的雙重考驗，也伴隨著酸甜苦辣，只因為熱愛著旅行，有顆年輕而渴望自由的靈魂，年輕本無畏，只為花費最少的錢，去走遍萬水千山。東南亞de行程中國：南寧西雙版納昆明重慶越南：河內順化會安峴港芽莊大叻美奈西貢柬埔寨：金邊暹粒上丁老撾：巴色萬象瑯勃拉邦我的微?。浩?丫的微博我的豆瓣：https//www.douban.com/people/zw187114229/我的人人：https//www.renren.com/746231855Facebook zw85683121@live.cn行走中國 100 多座城市的游記及攻略：https//forum.chinabeibao.com/forum.php?mod=viewthread&tid=35535 如果你喜歡可以加我為好友，我們一起分享旅途的開心，以及各個地方的旅途攻略。并借組8264戶外網，有個支言片語的地方，能夠結交更多志同道合的朋友。。。。綠城南寧 P 3越南越美自助旅行攻略 p 6 河內，法式建筑里的迷宮 p 6順化，皇城下的奧黛 p 9峴港，世界50個必去地之一 p 11 摩托車騎行峴港是段難忘的經歷會安古城 p 22 精致的古城，五彩斑斕的燈籠芽莊的沙發主 P 28 嗨到爆的芽莊四島游 P30 這個四島游強烈推薦，有圖有真相美奈，美的無可奈何 P34童話般的大叻 P37 綠樹藍天非常漂亮的小山城夜夜笙歌的西貢 p44柬埔寨自助游攻略 p48戰爭后的金邊 p48世界奇跡，吳哥窟 p51吳哥之美 Angkor wat p62 吳哥的震撼是用語言無法表達得巴戎寺，高棉的微笑 p68 這便是嚯嚯有名的高棉的微笑了古墓麗影，塔布戎寺 p71 這里有種穿越時空天人合一的力量巴肯神山，世界最美日落 p74女王宮變身寺高布思濱 p77靜謐的瑯勃拉邦 p82 這是個非常特別的小城，人們都信仰著佛教山城重慶 p88 重慶是個不錯的山城，值得慢慢品味芽莊的海會安古城美麗的山城大叻美奈，美的無可奈何夜夜笙歌的西貢世界奇跡，吳哥 Angkor wat古墓麗影，塔布戎寺巴肯神山，世界最美日落地之一靜謐的瑯勃拉邦綠城南寧關于南寧的記憶，依舊停留在五年以前，那些年青澀的我們，作為畢業旅行，而來到廣西南寧。對這座邊陲首府，印象頗為深刻，滿城皆綠的植被，密密麻麻覆蓋整座城市。漫步在街頭巷尾，粗壯挺拔的大樹比比皆是，在樹蔭的庇護下，成為避暑乘涼之地，“綠城”之名也因此得來。民族大道筆直的棕櫚樹、中山路美味可口的小吃、邕江邊悠閑散步的人群，都依舊歷歷在目，仿佛就在昨天，不曾走遠過。然而時間得奔騰，在歲月里卻從未停歇過。廣西首府南寧，距離越南首都河內，僅僅三百公里路程，這次東南亞之行，所以把其作為起始點。而這趟旅程也從踏上，K5次列車開始，正式拉開序幕。本著節省路費，行跡天涯的目的，選擇了最便宜的方式。然而旅途的剛剛開始，就已經痛苦難耐，硬座車廂內擠滿著，各處務工者，把本就窄小的過道，塞著水泄不通，連臭氣熏天的廁所口，也被擠得滿滿當當，有些無座者瞌睡難耐，便干脆沿著板凳，豎躺在臟兮兮的過道中。人數之眾多，導致空氣的不暢通，有種想立即逃脫的沖動，而十七個小時的煎熬，也是對精神耐力的最大考驗。翌日后的傍晚，強烈的熱流，迎面而拂來，空氣中夾雜著，南方特有的潮濕氣味，這種悶熱難耐的氣候，導致汗腺無法排出，混身黏糊糊，讓人難以適應，然而它的濕度、它的味道，卻又那么親切而熟悉。離開火車站，琨崽已等候多時，而因為證問、出境前的準備工作，在南寧借宿其宅下。六天短暫的停留，生活過的簡單而悠閑。清晨騎著自行車，兜風于城區之中，以這樣的節奏，與它親密接觸。民族廣場白鴿肆意飛舞，棕櫚樹星羅密布，邕江邊鍛煉的人影絡繹不絕。再次回眸后的它，多了幾分喧囂，城市大興土木后，灰塵撲鼻而來，摩托車堵滿街道，讓原有的印象蕩然無存，人生若只如初見。廣藝依靠著小南湖，Kiki 和 Cici是這里表演系的學生，漫步于南湖畔邊，聚集了數家，別有小資情調的酒吧、咖啡館，用鏡頭把這里美麗，撲捉進相機，然后揮一揮衣袖，說聲再見。中山路夜市，是南寧最熱鬧的小吃街，夜幕降臨后，人群擠滿街道，各式美食任君挑選，魷魚、生蠔、扇貝，甚至連鱷魚都擺上了餐桌。每天傍晚與蔣姐、毛哥吃晚飯，成了必修課程，酒桌上天馬行空的亂侃，然而話鋒一轉，又跳轉到了，那位日本友人丟車事件了。深夜百樂迪KTV里，依舊歌舞升天?？?看手表，已經凌晨二時，似乎有高歌通宵，來日抱頭死睡的架勢。而一首“朋友”曲目后，讓曾經記憶的碎片，不知不覺被喚醒了。清晨騎單車南寧小南湖南寧中山路小吃一條街雨過天晴后的城市，顯得格外涼爽舒適，這樣適宜的天氣，強迫琨崽和舒杰一起打籃球，減去身體多余脂肪。揮汗如雨的健兒，透徹和煦的陽光，讓自己有觸碰籃球的欲望，想急停跳投、想肆意突破、想單打得分，沒有什么時候，比現在更想去打籃球，只有大汗淋漓的釋放，才能有最好的解脫。然而一切得一切，僅僅只是幻想，因為我清楚，現在的身體狀態，是無法進行如此激烈的運動。

嗯討厭慢—點嗯哼

林文欣

一段快樂的驢行不至于在日后的歲月中變得支離破碎，為了與更多走過和未走過這條線的LZ分享旅途中的驚艷震撼，快樂痛苦，親情友誼。。。游記因此變得十分必要。我喜歡陌生的感覺，陌生能產生好奇，好奇有無限魔力，這個魔力吸引我一次次離家出走。。。檢索：第一頁前言，路上點滴第四頁麗江篇第十頁隊伍于瀘沽湖畔集結完畢第十七穿越正式開始三十四風景漸入佳境六十四約會雪山七十四穿越結束七十六全劇終群里很少有人說話，除了偶爾能碰到領隊，其他要去的幾個人一個比一個潛的深、隱的絕，連個溝通的機會都不給，我想他們是一群大隱者 ~！曾被今朝有酒醉的帖子毒倒，夏天又錯過兩個走這條線的穿越隊伍，這次無論什么情況我是一定要去的，10月21日下午我登上了開往成都的列車，開始了一場非同尋常的驢行~~ 金秋瀘沽湖-亞丁穿越路線圖：家鄉--成都--攀枝花--麗江--瀘沽湖--亞丁--稻城--理塘--新都橋--康定--瀘定--雅安--成都--家鄉黃金周已過，這個季節出門車上的旅客不多，還沒到西安我便有了自己的“臥鋪”，一個人可以坐仨位。天空漸漸變得昏暗，半夢半醒間被剛上車的幾個人吵醒，兩男兩女中年人，有說有笑風趣幽默，他們坐在我對面和過道另側的座位上。不知什么時候我便成了他們中的一員，于是我的“臥鋪”和對面的三人位便成了那夜我們輪換睡覺的地方，困了的睡覺，醒著的聊天，不覺孤單，不覺無聊。。。其中的兩位姐姐，容顏雖不年輕，笑容卻很單純清晨，列車駛過廣元，幾年前曾和朋友自駕九寨溝，第一次踏上四川的土地，也是個清晨路過廣元，那是個小雨迷離的清晨，秦嶺南麓雨量充沛，云霧飄渺于山中，空氣中透著潮濕，我很喜歡那種濕潤的感覺。透過車窗尋找舊日足跡，山還是那樣的山，而天空卻升起一輪驕陽~~ 過了江油，過了綿陽，離成都越來越近了，不知哪個站上來一位衣著頗顯些職業的四川mm坐在我們旁邊的位置，大姐和她聊起了化妝品，化妝品牌，我如聽天書，以為她是化妝品推銷員，起碼是做和化妝品有關的職業。很快到了終點站成都，我背上大包跨上小包準備下車，MM走在我身后，踏上月臺的那一刻聽到身后有異樣的聲響，回頭看到她的行李箱卡在車門處，于是我們有了結識的理由。她叫芮瑩，但不姓芮，美術專業的，去西寧導師的工作室，她的外表，著裝，沒一點藝術生的叛逆，卻恰恰相悖。在我的印象中搞藝術的男的不是光頭就是長發，衣著另類，不食人間煙火，從外形上就要搞得與眾不同，彰顯他們獨具一格的個性，女的也一略同我們在站外廣場拍了照片，留了QQ相互道別，她買票去西寧，我去南站買票去攀枝花~~~芮瑩 ME 超越，現居河南義馬，祖國秀美的山川讓我魂牽夢繞，于是喜歡背上行囊找尋陌生中的童話世界~~。在之后的8天穿越中，在8天的烈日暴曬下，用領隊一句話形容我：摘了帽子，脫了沖鋒衣，和當地原住民已無區分坐上公交穿城而過，成都給我的感覺很干凈，高樓鱗次櫛比，很繁華的大都市曾經，多少人青澀的夢留在那片校園中，彼此不分貴賤，沒有功利每每回首往事，可能獨屬那段時光最能勾人心神，不堪回首也好，刻骨銘心也罷~~。。如今，我已老去。。。腳印留下，故事陪伴一生網上查的有成都南到攀枝花的始發車，買票時售票小姐告訴我說現在沒有，那是節假日臨時加開的，郁悶！！可能我在網上查詢的方法有問，真暈，只好買了江油開往攀枝花的車票，離開車還有兩三個小時，出來在站外路邊店隨便吃點東西順便把手機充下電，到麗江還有兩天的時間，如果手機要是沒電了我豈不成了瞎子聾子，現代的通訊工具實在是太重要了上了車，還好，沒我想像的糟糕，人同樣不是很多，很順利找個位置坐下來，想想黃山歸來那次，在火車上可把我們幾頭驢整慘了，幾個人舉著大包在人滿為患的車廂中穿越，那情景很雷人！和我坐一起的是位在攀枝花長大的大哥，人很熱情，列車上人與人之間交流變得比較容易，可能是因為我們彼此陌生，沒誰去關注你的過去、現在和未來。。。。夕陽漸漸消失在地平線，又一個暮色來臨，大哥扒在桌上似乎已經睡去，我卻感嘆車輪下這條沉重的鐵路。上世紀六七十年代，建國初年，國力薄弱，技術落后，為了國防、經濟等建設需要，三線人豪情萬丈念著毛主席語錄，從祖國的四面八方來到這大西南的崇山峻嶺，在大山深處，修鐵路建工廠，他們用人海戰術，用青春歲月，用血與汗鑄造了一條條鐵路，一座座工廠，用驚天地泣鬼神來形容他們的精神與壯舉不覺絲毫夸張列車駛進樂山車站，下車的人很多，過道對面只剩一個小姑娘了，于是我又一次擁有了“臥鋪”的機會。小姑娘網名：洛若兮，據她講取自《洛神賦》里的字，名字很別致很高古，聽她說話卻相當單純，每說一句話最后都要抿嘴笑一下，時而四川話，時而四川普通話，很搞笑，單純可愛屬于她這個季節。當聊起她的家庭，爸爸媽媽，聽她的身世卻有些凄楚，最疼愛她的奶奶也已離他而去，似乎這個世界上再沒有更關心她的人了，祝愿她能生活的很好洛若兮天蒙蒙亮，攀枝花到了。大哥、我、洛若兮我們一同下了火車，車站外就有發麗江的大巴，我問了票價，要80元人民幣，和我在網上查的不一致，我查的是客運中心去麗江的大巴有45元的，于是決定和大哥他倆一起坐公交去客運中心，中途洛若兮告別下了車，大哥一直把我送到到客運中心，他原本不在這下車，再此感謝了。到售票廳買票，結果也是80，網絡再次欺騙了我開往麗江的大巴一直就我們幾個乘客，像專車，我得以在后面拿著相機左拍拍右拍拍攀枝花四季氣候溫和，比我想象中的重工業城市清潔，這座鋼城沿江而建，在狹長的山谷中綿延數公里一橋飛架南北，一江穿橋而過，她們可曾知道還有一顆滿懷激情的心在她們身邊悄悄經過中午吃飯，拍下我們乘坐的大巴忽然發現，屋檐下一怒放的生命在斑駁的光影中傲然倔強、嬌艷嫵媚，于是拍下了行程中第一張還算滿意的照片車子繼續前行，建筑和景觀漸漸有了變化，山上的村落有點像彝族村寨，星星點點原以為只有在荒漠中成片生長的仙人掌在這個地方卻爬滿山頭山上這樣的樹木也很特別還有那記憶深刻，我卻沒拍下來的芭蕉葉，鳳尾竹。記得小時候同學之間流行互相贈送日記本，它的最大特點是中間有美術或攝影插圖，有祖國的名勝古跡，如：北京的長城，上海的外灘，南京的長江大橋，蘇州的園林，安徽的黃山。。。也有少數民族的風情，如，蒙古的賽馬，天山的羊群，藏族的舞蹈，傣族的潑水節。。。西南少數民族的歌舞、繪畫作品多以鳳尾竹，芭蕉葉做背景，那些長在內心的童年記憶如癡如夢，神秘而遙不可及，如今竟不經意間呈現在面前，而我卻忘記了按下快門逆光下金沙江宛如一條巨龍奔騰在峽谷之間彝族村舍散落在牧歌般的田園中，安詳，靜謐，勤勞，自足山如畫卷，氣勢恢宏，壯美之至溢于言表，自然的杰作往往給人意想不到的震撼峰回路轉，給我的第一感覺就是陶淵明筆下的桃花源驚現于眼前：“復行數十步，豁然開朗。土地平曠，屋舍儼然，有良口美池桑竹之屬。阡陌交通，雞犬相聞。其中往來種作，男女衣著，悉如外人。黃發垂髫并恰然自樂。 ”“先世避秦時亂，率妻子邑人來此絕境，不復出焉，遂與外人間。問今是何世，乃不知有漢，無

俏佳人忘憂草wyc在線

蘇碧綺

《最后的藏地：甘青川大環線》序2007年，隨著一篇帖子誤打誤撞地進入了川西的藏區后，在接下去的幾年，藏地，就像魔咒般地吸引著我。我和我的兄弟，因此，有了藏地五年計劃。今年，是我們行游藏地的第五年，也是藏地五年計劃的最后一年。五年來，我們很幸運，也很執著：07年，我們第一次來到了藏區。我們驚艷于新都橋的光影和八美的柔情；而穿越四姑娘讓我們第一次有了驢的感覺。08年，貢嘎的壯美、剪子彎的高原草甸、外星球般的海子山、仙乃日的威嚴、雨崩的神秘和一妻多夫以及雨崩小學的張老師和十個小時的的梅里穿越，更給我烙下了深刻的印象。09年，我們終于走了川藏南線?？邕^金沙江，真正來到了西藏。來古冰川、米堆冰川、嘎瓦龍雪山和天池。。。無不讓我深深懷念！10年，21天，我們完成了阿里大環線的穿越。珠峰的夕照和普蘭的寧靜；瑪旁雍措的深邃和拉昴措的詭異；古格的神秘和東嘎皮央遺址的凄涼；扎達的壯觀和天堂般的文布；色林措的歡樂和倉姑寺的詳和；以及一路相伴的藏野驢、藏羚羊、差點因高發下撤而割袍斷義的兄弟和我的隊友組成了我10年最美好的回憶。2011年，藏地五年計劃的最后一年，我們走進了甘青川。。。目錄一、序二、出發前的糾結三、穿越夾金山四、西索民居和土司官寨五、關于馬爾康的阿來和其它六、太陽河峽谷勞作的藏族小孩七、邂逅馬爾康看花節八、色達：經幡揚起的是一顆寧靜的心九、年龍寺：探訪閉關修行的年龍上師仁波切十、班瑪：天葬臺、江日堂寺和非誠勿攏的劉婷婷十一、白玉寺：拜訪著名的傳奇人物----“年寶玉則的觀鳥喇嘛”扎西桑俄十二、年寶玉則：僧人的笑容十三、放花無語對瑪卿----穿越阿尼瑪卿紀實十四、瑪多：黃河之水天上來十五、走向共和十六、青海湖：不要問我從哪里來十七、大美祈連：卓爾山十八、阿柔大寺：最帥氣喇嘛和可愛的藏民十九、門源：一片金色向著黨二十、西寧--合作：多民族聚集的和諧走廊二十一、扎尕那：遺世獨立的非著名山峰二十二、郎木寺：天葬臺的誘惑二十三、紅原：千回百轉的黃河第一灣二十四、汶川：不能忘卻的紀念二十五、結束語二、出發前的糾結是甘川青還是川青甘？這是個問。時間進入到五月，10年同行阿里的隊友開始活躍起來。西湖和本色不斷邀約加入他們甘川青的隊伍；我也開始謀劃我的11年行程，但皆因種種不確定性沒有允諾隊友。首先是兄弟的不確定性，達華云里霧里，不置可否；另外一個剛加盟的小兄弟（耗子）想玩回大環線自駕；而我自己確定不了具體出發的時間。再者，今年，我必須得去色達。而西湖本色的隊伍走的是甘-川-青，他們放棄了色達。而放棄色達是我不能容忍的。就這樣，和原來阿里的隊友失之交臂，以致于11年的行程只有風景，沒有了風情；只有色彩，沒有了精彩；只有英雄，沒有了故事。五千公里的曠野，只有三個年近不惑的孤獨的男人在自我裝酷卻無人欣賞。。。蘇說，他就像曠野里的那只藏原羊一樣孤獨，只好不斷地把白屁股炫耀以期待少許的目光。七月初，達華正式告知將攜妻兒自駕；汶川突至暴雨和泥石流交通中斷；而我家閣樓露臺上的紫藤卻突然枯萎。。。這無疑不是出發前的好兆頭。耗子在暴雨、泥石流和枯萎的紫藤以及我們的七嘴八舌下終于決定放棄自駕。至此，我們終于決定七月初從成都出發。后來得知，本色當上了隊長，拉起了原來阿里的隊伍，過起了萬花叢中一點綠的滋潤日子；茗禪冒充強驢騙取信任穿越了貢嘎，留給我們的是嫉妒和羨慕；達華最終攜妻帶子自駕棄我們而去。。。七月，阿里英雄終于各自在路上。三、穿越夾金山夾金山，并不是我們計劃中的行程。汶川線的暴雨和泥石流讓我們被迫放棄了原來的線路，我們只能繞道夾金山。夾金山，是一座英雄的山。夾金山位于四川省阿壩藏族羌族自治州小金縣南部，與著名的四姑娘山風景區毗鄰，距成都250公里。夾金山也是當年中國工農紅軍一方面軍萬里長征與紅四方面勝利會師的地方。夾金山從此載入中國革命歷史的光榮史。2011年的7月，是紅色的7月。我們的行程就從這紅色的夾金山開始了。夾金山埡口紅軍達維會師1935年6月，中國工農紅軍第一方面軍翻越夾金山與紅四方面軍在四川省阿壩州小金縣達維鄉正式會師。如今，達維會師已成為一處重溫紅色記憶的旅游景點。70年后，這里也成了一個旅游勝地。這里，也是世界第一只大熊貓的科學發現地，盡管我們沒有發現大熊貓。傍晚的夾金山沐浴在夕陽中。夏日的夾金山卻猶如沐浴在秋色之中，傍晚時分的一縷夕陽打在藏居上。當年的紅軍，也許無暇這樣的風景。四、西索民居和土司官寨傍晚，我們終于抵達馬爾康郊外的西索民居和卓克基土司官寨。西索民居卓克基土司官寨西索民居獨具嘉絨藏族特色，保持了嘉絨先民“壘石為室”的傳統建筑風格，寨子鱗次櫛比、錯落有致，遠目望去猶如一座壁壘森嚴的古堡。整個民居從遠處鳥瞰，便會驚奇地發現西索藏寨酷似藏族八寶圖案中的“花依”圖案(狀如“中華結”，代表釋伽牟尼的心)，寨子中直來豎往、彎來拐去的青石板小道，把圖案的線條展現的非常清晰。藏寨全是三層石樓，底層飼養牲畜，第二層是廚房和住宿，三層是經堂和客房。民居建筑形如碉狀，也稱碉樓。房屋四周的墻體均用片石砌成,用黃泥粘合。墻體厚達1米,采用內直外收的砌法, 工匠們僅憑經驗，砌出的石墻如刀切豆腐般整齊，棱角銳利，上窄下寬，整個墻體處于抗壓狀態,成為建筑的承重主體。加之內部木結構橫梁的互相支撐拉合,整個建筑下大上小、重心向內、穩定性強。到最高處，碉樓四角順勢形成角鋒，造成一種氣勢，最高處的石墻邊緣加厚，避免墻表的平面化，增強立體感。房頂一分為二，前半部分為平頂，三面砌成矮墻；后半部分形成斜山式，覆蓋石板或瓦。每層樓的窗戶都外小內大，窗框很講究，用上了雕刻、繪畫、上彩等技巧，民族特色很濃。這種碉樓不僅冬暖夏涼，而且建筑藝術獨特，審美價值高，就像一件件珍貴的藝術品。卓克基土司官寨位于距馬爾康縣城7公里的卓克基鎮西索村。官寨依山而建，坐北朝南，被國際友人贊譽為“東方建筑史上的一顆明珠”。官寨始建于1918年清朝乾隆年間，為四層碉房，1936年毀于大火，1938年----1940年，土司索觀贏組織人力進行重建。1935年7月，毛澤東同志及中央機關長征途中曾在官寨住宿一周。1988年，卓克基官寨被國務院列為第三批國家重點文物保護單位。卓克基土司官寨有著重要的歷史文化以及豐富的旅游資源。五、關于馬爾康的阿來和其它值得說一句的是，馬爾康是著名藏族作家阿來的家鄉。阿來：1959年出生于馬爾康，畢業于馬爾康師范學校。2009年3月，阿來當選為四川省作協主席，現兼任中國作協副主席。從1994年《塵埃落定》寫出至1998年出版其間，阿來由阿壩州一家雜志轉輾到四川成都《科幻世界》由編輯到總編輯社長，《科幻世界》在阿來手里由一本雜志變為五六種，成為世界上發行量最大的科幻類雜志。數百萬讀者期待讀到阿來新作。來之前，我不知道，馬爾康就是阿來的家鄉。在西索民居時，我的司機師傅輕輕說了一句：這就是阿來居住過的地方，小說《塵埃落定》的故事就發生在這里。輕描淡寫的一句話，卻觸動了我的內心。阿來是我喜歡的一位作家?！秹m埃落定》就是他的代表作，曾獲得第五屆茅盾文學獎。我喜歡的倒不是他的《塵埃落定》，而是他對西藏土地深沉的愛和對西藏發展自己獨立的見解。雖然，我沒看過他寫的《格薩爾王》，但我欣賞他寫《格薩爾王》的勇氣和毅力。我有一本阿來的文集《看見》。在文中，阿來說：看哪，落定的塵埃又微微泛起，山間的大路上，細小的石英沙塵在陽光下閃爍出耀眼的光芒，在茫茫宇宙中漂浮不定。唉，一路都是落不定的塵埃！寫完《格薩爾王》后，阿來說：王啊，今天我要把你的故事還給你，我要走出你的故事了。這是一個小說家的宿命，從一個故事向另一個故事漂泊。當一些所謂的有識之士憂慮于青藏鐵路的建設時，阿來所說的話讓我贊嘆，他不同流和盲從于“有識之士”。阿來說：如果說，這條鐵路的建成，對建設者是一個勝利，而對這條鐵路經過的高原，對這條鐵路所沖擊的古老文化，對當地政府和老百姓，這到底是一個天降的福音，還是一個巨大的考驗，全賴于面臨這樣一個新的機遇的人們有沒有準備好去迎接挑戰。我討厭于一些看法。諸如，西藏的高原上架設高壓線破壞景觀；西藏的腹地通公路影響生態；西藏鐵路和機場的建設是對環境和西藏文化的破壞。。。諸如此類，等等等等。當我們手拿IPAD，喝著咖啡，暢游在信息高速公路上時，我們有什么權力讓西藏人民永遠手持轉筒匍匐著轉經呢？五年了，當我周游在藏地時，更多看到的只是游客們獵奇的眼光和淺薄的認識，他們討厭藏民用手機、討厭藏民開著摩托車放牧；他們希望的西藏永遠是原始、原始、再原始；他們希望把西藏割裂于現代文明之外。。。古老和現代的沖突是一個永恒的話。我崇拜甚至是膜拜西藏悠久的文化和宗教，但我也不排斥他們對現代文明和現代化的選擇，我相信，這不是西藏人民的“被選擇”。只是，在這種選擇之前，正如阿來所說的，“全賴于面臨這樣一個新的機遇的人們有沒有準備好去迎接挑戰”。我想，在現代化、現代文明和西藏古老的歷史、文化、宗教沖突中，我們不要做非此即彼的選擇，我們所要關注的是，如何去尋找沖突間的結合點，以期待讓西藏古老文化和宗教在現代文明前更加熠熠生輝，以期待西藏的環境在現代化面前妥善地予以保護。這才是真正考驗政府和百姓的智慧。感謝阿來，祝福西藏。六、太陽河峽谷勞作的藏族小孩這一天，除了色達五明佛學院讓我震撼之外，就是這在田間勞作的藏族小孩的眼睛和笑容。從清晨的馬爾康醒來，昨晚的燈火輝煌已遺留在睡夢中。馬爾康縣城位于山谷之間，海拔并不高，只有2700米?？h城規劃整齊，湍急的索磨河穿城而過。清晨的馬爾康夜幕下的馬爾康霓虹閃爍，光影迷離。在藏語里，馬爾康的意思就是燈火旺盛的地方，據說此命名來至一位得道高僧。在藏地，這樣的高僧往往又是偉大的預言家。今天，預言再次成真。我們沿著大渡河的上游---太陽河峽谷前行。山澗，霧氣升騰。大渡河咆哮東去，雨后的太陽河峽谷清新詭異。晨霧中的藏居很是搶眼，早起的藏民已走向田間地頭。藏居、碉樓、高壓塔。雖然，高壓電線塔很不應景，但我希望大家更多的是看到它給西藏人民帶來的光明而給以包容。有一種風景，她遺世獨立。有一種力量，她堅如磐石。有一種行走，叫做虔誠。也有一種行走，叫做造作。中午，我們來到了壤塘縣大伊里村。這一路，最吸引我們的就是藏式民居。這一帶的藏式民居三樓均以柳條編制而成，上寬下窄，儼然穿上鎧甲的將士。就在這樣的環境里日出而作，繁衍生息。大伊里鄉其實是個重點扶持的富裕鄉。對口幫扶讓他們過上了現代生活。在這紅色的七月，需常懷感恩之心。大伊里鄉瓜果青翠，花香四溢。([]

md0076沈芯語在線觀看

張智強

前言：老貓每次的出行基本上都是和家人在一起游玩；要么自駕游；要么報團游。這個春節父母嫌冬天太冷，不愿意外出；兒子今年馬上就要中考了，也沒時間到處溜達，老貓又是個閑不住的人，又是一個偏愛美食的吃貨，所以有了這次出行。這次出行共拍攝二千多張照片，包括美食，行程，換乘公交，地鐵的攻略照片，如果您覺得對您有用，就果斷收藏吧。至于旅行的方向，老貓其實心里一直有個愿望，這個愿望是老貓童年的兩個夢想之一（那個夢想已經實現了），一直伴隨著老貓三十多年。這次終于實現了。這次的出行，老貓做了大量的攻略，查閱了南京、揚州、鎮江、無錫、西塘的特色小吃，總想把所有的小吃一網打盡，但是現實很無奈，肚子飽了；眼睛不飽；最后撐得我呀······· 這次的旅行，認識了很多的驢友。在南京，指導和我同住的安徽小伙炒菜；夜游夫子廟、秦淮河，尋找南京地道的小吃；吃地道的南京老字號名店；驚險刺激的景點逃票；重溫了中學時期所學習的歷史課上的東西；圓了我的童年的夢想。 “故人西辭黃鶴樓，煙花三月下揚州······”這首膾炙人口的唐詩是我對揚州的最初認識，溫文爾雅、小家碧玉的瘦西湖沒有杭州的西湖大氣，卻以自身的美景----樓臺水榭，吸引著人們的眼球；爭奇斗艷的梅花競相開放，為這美麗的瘦西湖增加了一點艷妝。揚州的小吃特別的美味，當我在品嘗揚州獅子頭、大煮干絲、吸管蟹黃湯包、餃面的時候，恰好在我旁邊坐的少男少女談論美食（他們也是背包客，剛從南京來到揚州）；我給出品嘗美食意見的時候；看到他們一臉崇拜的眼神，心里稍稍的有些得意。在鎮江，我終于知道和看見“水漫金山”中的金山了。金山寺的傳說神乎其神；古老的西津古渡向人們訴說著千年的故事：泊船瓜州王安石京口瓜州一水間，鐘山只隔數重山。春風又綠江南岸，明月何時照我還。這里的“瓜州”指的是揚州；“京口”指的就是西津古渡游覽了北固山上的甘露寺，近距離的接觸當年劉備招親的場所。在無錫，親身經歷了“滾滾長江東逝水·······”三國演義的拍攝現場，踏上了吳國水軍的戰船；聽到、看到了金戈鐵馬的三英戰呂布的古裝表演；一下穿越千年，到“大河向東流，天上的星星參北斗呀······”水滸城，仿佛看見武大郎挑著擔子在沿街販賣燒餅；西門大官人和潘金蓮的偶遇；于是引發了一系列后面的故事·······“太湖美，太湖美·······”，這首歌相信大多數的人都會哼唱，其實無錫還有一“壺”宜興紫砂壺（宜興市隸屬無錫管轄）；這次之旅，讓我知道不少的鑒定真正紫砂壺的知識；也算是一種學習吧。西塘古鎮的小橋流水烏篷船、長滿苔痕的青石板，以及青石板上不知哪年篆刻的紋路；一眼望不到頭的窄窄古巷，若仔細聆聽，都能聽到她千年綿長的訴說，我在這兒等你，你在哪兒······蒙蒙的細雨，輕輕的飄逸，散發著江南古老的韻味，打著一把油布傘，和心愛的人兒，漫步在青石石板上，送子來鳳橋上、煙雨長廊里········，那絕對是浪漫的經典情懷?？上乙?個人獨步，獨自徘徊在這悠長的雨巷中，最后被這浪漫的細雨轉化成滂沱大雨淋了個“落湯雞”唉，玩不了浪漫了！沿街小商鋪的美食還是吸引了我的腳步；滿街的管老太臭豆腐的味道，混雜在清新的空氣中是那么的“霸道”；勾引了無數人的嗅覺，蜂擁而至，聞著味就去了，準能找到。上海的田子坊是文藝青年的天堂，連老外都止不住腳步；我這種被“時尚潮流”淘汰的大叔，顯得與這兒格格不入。如果你有什么疑問，請知會老貓一聲，老貓一定知無不言，言無不盡。這次的出行，在每個城市里，老貓全部坐公交、地鐵、徒步（只有在無錫那晚時間已快至午夜，離住地太遠，所以打了一次車）。通過這次出行的考驗，老貓感覺身體還行，趁著身體還行的時候，多走些地方。在這兒，老貓也告訴那些猶豫不決的親們，其實自己一個人的自由行并不十分的“可怕”，當你邁出離家的腳步，就意味著你成功了一大半。通過這次的出行，我感覺報團旅行真的是浪費時間，以后再也不報團了。可能我有豐富的駕車經驗，在每個城市的方向感特別準，找景點、住宿根本就不費事；以至于有個我入住的店老板都問我，你來過這兒？當然，也有走過“彎路”，所以，老貓總結了一些經驗：1）問路不能找年齡大的老人；多問幾個人，看看是否所指路線一致2）不能特別相信攻略（有的攻略已經過時）3）離開自己視線的水和食品（已開封），就不能食用（當然不是把每個人都想得那么齷齪；害人之心不可有；防人之心不可無呀，自己掂量）4）不衛生、變質的食品（小吃）；不能為了味蕾（味覺）而不顧身體；畢竟你處在不熟悉的環境中，遇到生病不僅會讓家人擔心還會耽誤行程。5）看到不平的事，盡量少管；（老貓也是個血性漢子，但是，人生地不熟的情況下，呵呵）6）看護好自己的隨身物品7）入住的房間門一定確認鎖好；避免產生不必要的麻煩。8）遇到對自己不公正（公平）的事，只要不是損害自己利益太大的情況下，就不要太追究了。9）商鋪里容易打碎的物品（陶瓷、瓷器、玻璃等），盡量遠離，萬一打碎說不清楚，容易被訛詐。10）出門在外，一定要牢記：人身安全第一；損失些財物都無所謂。老貓就能想起這么多，如果還有不足之處，歡迎親們補充。先說說我童年的夢想：夢想一記得我剛上小學一年級的時候（1979年）；我們在教室上課，講到“天安門；五星紅旗”的時候；老師聲情并茂的講解，并在課堂上教我們唱“我愛北京天安門，天安門上太陽升，偉大領袖毛主席指引我們向前進······”，我們奶聲奶氣的唱著，那時候，我天真的想，太陽一定是從天安門上升起的；在我幼小的心中，天安門---那是神秘而又神圣的地方。下課了，我從廁所回來，看見教室里的一個課桌上圍了一大群的同學；好奇心使我也加入其中。原來是我班上的一個小女生手里拿著一張照片，同學們爭先恐后的說，給我看看，給我看看···，小女生很神氣的說，不給你們男生看；別撕扯壞了。我用眼睛瞟了一下照片，原來是她在天安門前照的相片；扎著兩只小辮子，非常神氣的站在天安門前。我這時候嘟囔了一句“：有什么了不起的，我長大了一定也在天安門前照張相?！睆哪菚r候起，這個愿望就好像在我7、8歲的心理埋下下了一個種子，慢慢的，蔓延在我的腦海里，直至生根發芽······· 如今的我已經去過無數次北京，不僅在天安門前照了相片，而且還登上天安門城樓上，記得那天，我特意站在天安門的正中央---毛主席向世界宣布“中華人民共和國、中央人民政府今天正式成立了'的地方，此時，我用手輕輕的撫摸著天安門城樓，心理百感交集···現在想想，呵呵，我是不是個“另類”？讓人見笑呀，有點土鱉再說說費用情況吧。老貓一個人輕車簡從，對住宿要求不是太高，基本是在外面溜達，很晚才會駐地，所以扒個窩就睡，早上爬起來，簡單洗漱一下就走；吃飯，基本吃當地的特色小吃，沒有到大飯店大吃大喝（老貓也不喜歡大盤子大碗的造）所以費用不是很高。注：費用從離家開始算起至到家結束日期明細費用備注 2月19日從家到周水子機場乘坐14路、46路公交 2元（南京）從周水子機場到南京祿口機場深圳航空zh9678航班 420元從祿口機場乘坐機場s1號線到三山街 7元入住南京笨笨小驢窩（19、20日） 133元夜游秦淮河游船票 80元南京老字號----尹氏湯包 18元合計：660元---------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------2月20日從白鷺洲公園到南京大屠殺紀念館乘坐63路公交 2元（南京）從南京大屠殺盡管到下馬坊站乘坐地鐵2號線 2元從中山陵到明孝陵乘坐電瓶車 10元從明孝陵乘坐大巴車到苜蓿園地鐵站 2元從苜蓿園站乘坐地鐵到三山街地鐵站 2元在三山街地鐵站出口吃南京老鹵干和老鹵蛋 5元藍老大餐館吃桂花糖芋苗、桂花糖粥藕、酒釀赤豆元宵 30元蔣有記吃牛肉鍋貼、牛肉餛飩 14元沈記臭豆腐、南京蘭花干 10元司記豆腐腦、茴香豆 11元從中華門到新街口乘坐16路公交 2元從新街口到楊公井乘坐27路公交 2元從楊公井到夫子廟乘坐公交 2元合計：94元--------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------2月21日從莫愁湖到雞鳴寺乘坐48路公交 2元（南京）雞鳴寺門票 15元雞鳴寺上香 5元在雞鳴寺吃齋飯 20元在中山北路乘坐16路公交漢江門車站 2元閱江樓門票（網上訂） 30元南京長江大橋橋頭堡門票 15元南堡公園到南京站乘坐69路公交 2元在南京站吃回味鴨血粉絲 15元南京到揚州火車票 16元合計：122元---------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------2月21日從揚州站到瓊花觀乘坐88路公交 2元（揚州）入住揚州環球旅館 54元在東關街吃梅花糕 4元蔣家橋餃面店吃揚州獅子頭、吸管蟹黃包、蝦仔餃面、大煮干絲 45.5元合計：105.5元-----------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------2月22日揚州特色小吃--黃橋燒餅 19.5元（揚州）從文昌中路珍園到瘦西湖乘坐4路公交 2元瘦西湖門票（網上訂） 100元大明寺門票 30元在大明寺門口吃香什錦米糕 5元大明寺到揚州西站乘坐旅游專線公交 2元揚州到鎮江汽車票 17元合計：175.5元----------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------2月22日從鎮江站到西津渡口乘坐2路公交 1元（鎮江）在西津古渡百年老店吃狀元餅 10元在西津古渡口吃鎮江特色---鍋蓋面、肴肉 23元從西津渡口道鎮江站乘坐2路公交 1元入住鎮江舒悅旅館（網上訂，近火車站） 29元合計64元---------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------2月23日從火車站到金山公園乘坐k216公交 2元（鎮江）從金山公園到北固山公園乘坐8路公交 1元北固山公園到焦山公園乘坐D3公交 1元焦山公園到金山公園乘坐104路公交 1元北固山公園門票 30元焦山公園門票（網上訂、淡季） 45元金山公園門票（網上訂、淡季） 45元北固山上香 5元焦山定慧寺上香 5元金山寺上香 2元金山寺到西津渡口乘坐102路公交 1元西津渡口到火車站乘坐2路公交 1元在鎮江站吃大娘水餃 22元鎮江到無錫火車票 33.5元合計：194.5元---------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------2月23日入住交通賓館（23、24日近火車站） 130元（無錫）報團無錫一日游 130元夜游南禪寺小吃街、南長街打車 18元酥餅 9元合計：287元-------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------2月24日早餐 8元（無錫）武大郎炊餅 5元從火車站到惠山古鎮乘坐10路公交 2元憶秦園惠山店吃太湖三白小餛飩、蟹粉小籠包 46元惠山油酥餅 5元從惠山古鎮到南禪寺乘坐15路公交 2元吃野乞丐餅 5元南禪寺到火車站乘坐92路公交 2元合計：75元----------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------2月25日無錫到嘉善南站火車票 58元（西塘）從嘉善南站到嘉善客運中心乘坐K702路公交 2元從嘉善客運中心到西塘汽車站乘坐K216路公交 2元入住西塘吾阿屋里客棧 100元西塘小吃脆皮牛肉火燒 15元管老太臭豆腐 10元生煎餃 10元芡實糕、木錘酥糖 30元老馬粉蒸肉 8元合計：235元---------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------2月26日茴香豆 3元（西塘）酒釀圓子 9元嘉興肉粽 7元合計：19元--------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------2月26日西塘到嘉善火車站乘坐K210路公交 2元（上海）嘉善火車站到嘉善客運中心乘坐221公交 2元嘉善汽車站到上海南站車票 33元上海南站到打浦橋地鐵站（1號線在徐家匯換乘9號線） 4元在田子坊吃蘭州拉面、蘭州炒飯 20元打浦橋地鐵站到浦東機場地鐵站（9號線在世紀大道換乘2號線） 7元入住悅景99客棧（施灣店）（網上訂） 74.5元合計：142.5元---------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------2月27日上海浦東機場到大連周水子機場9c8843航班 340元（大連）周水子機場乘坐701、14路公交到家 2元合計：342元--------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------- 總計： 2516元【南京篇】（本次出行的所有拍攝照片為手機和卡片機拍攝，效果不是太好，見諒）來一場說走就走的旅行；談一場轟轟烈烈的愛情，是人生當中不可多得的美好經歷；再不瘋狂，我們就老了。當青春的歲月離我漸行漸遠的時候，可以想象，年以垂暮的我，坐在家中翻看當年旅行照片的時候，會對年輕的時光沒有遺憾了。2月19日（大年初一），簡單的收拾了一下行李，在夾雜著稀稀拉拉的鞭炮聲中，坐著公交車來到周水子機場。開始了我獨自一人的旅行在自助取票機器上，我選了個靠窗的位置。很快就拿到登機牌原以為過年期間出行的人應該不算太多，沒想到，人還是不少?？磥硐笪乙粯硬弧?安分”的人還不少呀很快過了安檢，登機，準備出發準備，再次起飛！飛機很快就起飛了，通過飛機的舷窗，可以清晰的俯視整個大連的景色往日坐飛機都是穿云而過，看不到下面的陸地的；智能看見一眼望不到邊的天空、千姿百態的云層。但是，這次的飛行確很神奇，從頭到尾都能看見下面的大海、山川、河流、甚至是陸地上火柴盒大小的建筑。星海灣上的跨海大橋在蒼茫的大海上，行駛的小船，拖起一束美麗的“白蓮花”（感謝老天爺，天空萬里無云）飛機上提供的午餐（下午2點多了，不知道是午餐還是晚餐）飛機馬上就要降落了，不難看出，陸地上的湖泊、河流；還有生機盎然的綠意安全降落在南京祿口機場，南京，我來了。祿口機場南京祿口機場換乘地鐵機場S1號線到三山街站下，（票價7元）。大約走500米距離就到夫子廟了（地鐵3號線還沒開通，有夫子廟站）南京地鐵票(很有意思吧，呵呵）南京的地鐵還是很方便的地鐵里沒有幾個人，也許是過年的原因吧([

哥…別?了要流了

蔡宗原

Northern Wilderness, Solo Traverse of the Great Chang TangMr YANG Liusong, a Chinese who just finished the first solo traverse over Chang Tang by cycling from west to east in recorded human history, shared his stunning Expedition with all of us through the forum 8264 https//bbs.8264.com/thread-512349-1-1.html . In order to share his legendary journey with those who cannot read Chinese, I translate his story to English here, which has been approved by Mr YANG Liusong. Hope you guys enjoy it.為了讓楊同學的傳奇能讓全世界的驢友分享，俺決定把楊同學的帖子翻譯成英文。為了避免麻煩，俺先來個免責聲明：1。楊同學不認識俺，也沒有授權俺，如果他說不要翻譯了那俺就隨時終止；2。俺沒有商業目的，譯版版權歸楊同學，俺啥也不要，也不承擔法律責任；3。沒有楊同學授權，不敢擅自發在國外網站，發在原帖處，榮譽歸8264；4。俺英語水平有限，歡迎指正，歡迎轉貼。 Northern Wilderness, Solo Traverse of the Great Chang TangBy Yang LiusongIt has been three months since I traversed the unpopulated region in the Great Chang Tang. There are many like-minded asking me about it. I now present this thread to briefly tell everybody about my journey.The starting point of this traverse was from the highest peak of the western part of the Tibetan plateau, Jieshan Daban, and the day was April 20, 2010.I was heading eastward passing Bungdag Co, Yanghu Co, Rola Co, and Kangzhagri Mountain, which crossed over the desolate region from west to east. The journey continued northward to enter the unpopulated area of Altun Mountains, through Hoh Xil Mountains, Kunlun Mountains, Whale lake, ..., finally met some people by the Aqqikkol Hu and then arrived in Huatugou by vehicle three days later and that day was July 5. It had been 77 days in total. I had been all alone 74 days after leaving Jieshan Daban until arriving inAqqikkol Hu, which was about 1400km and about four months.[The Great Chang Tang] In Tibetan, "Chang Tang" means northern empty wilderness while narrowly, means unpopulated region in northern part of Tibet. However, it actually indiCATes all of the no man's land in northern. The great Chang Tang includes desolate places in Northern Tibet, Hoh Xil, Alun Mountains, and Kunlun Mountains, which are interconnected to form the unique and super empty wilderness in the world. Only because Hoh Xil is the most known name, most people just think this vast land is equivalent to Hoh Xil. In reality, Hoh Xil is only a small piece of the Great Chang Tang both administratively and geologically. The Great Chang Tang, the last land to chase your freedom and dream.The route that I traversed ForeplayI arrived in Tibet in the early March, a couple of troubles bothered me. The brand new plug got its positive and negative wrongly connected; the rivets of my rucksack eASIly got broken from now and again; and a multi-functional charger got damaged and so on. Riding my bike to Ngari for warming up of this journey, lost my rucksack but later got it back; lost my camera bag and got it back later again, and finally lost a big bicycle pannier in the street of Gyangze town under the eyes of police, including clothes, solar panel and so on.Without much choice, I returned to Lhasa to adjust all the stuff I would need in the wilderness. Then I begged some luck by going to Nyingchi to enjoy the blossoms of peach trees and to take a hot spring bath. I even had the privilege to enjoy time with ten girls in the hot spring. I felt my bad luck had all gone and then returned to Lhasa again to prepare going to Ngari. I did not expect that I was cheated on by some hustler and lost some money and delayed my schedule for a week. I had to find a car myself quickly to Nagri. However, I lost the tool for fast-parting my rear wheel on my way to Nagri, where was a remote area in Tibet and nowhere to buy the tool. Even if there was one in Lhasa it would take at least ten days for a special delivery service. I was lucky that my mate Duola asked a driver to bring the tool for me from Lhasa. I thought there should be no more nightmare like this but the nozzle of my brand new multi-fuel stove was broken. The next day I tried everywhere to weld them back together. The first three shops could not do the welding for copper. The fourth one said they could do it but could not guarantee a sUCCess. The engineer said it would be ten Chinese yuans if it was a success. I agreed. Just in seconds, my nozzle became crap in a flash of lightening. I was so upset. Again, Duola helped me by bringing her own MSR oil stove and Dingding's sleeping bag to Nagri. That was already April 16 and I did not have much time to waste. The following day I found a vehicle heading to Jieshan Daban.The sand storm over Yarlung Zangbo RiverA lonely peach tree blossoming in Yarlung Zangbo Grand CanyonNatural hot spring in wild, me singing and drinking (photo by a friend of mine) Day 1(April 20), 16km, Camping 5192mIt was a truck with a full load of iron wastes, arriving in Jieshan Daban at 6'o clock in the morning. It was still night and extremely cold and dark. Driver was not bothered to pop his head out of the driving cab. I climbed up on the top of the iron wastes, taking my bicycle down. In a hurry, I punched my old water bag. Fortunately I had another MSR water bag given by a friend of mine otherwise I would definitely fail without even starting my journey. For the first time for me to set up the brand new tent in strong, cold winds. It would be impossible to do so if the tent was not a whole piece. Extremely cold outside, about -15C, might be lower than that, I put my head into the sleeping bag but was nearly suffocated to death, honestly. The smell of Dingding's sleeping bag was, lol, so extraordinary. I woke up around 11 o'clock. There were still strong winds outside so that I had to use my bodyweight to keep the tent in place. At the time when I just started to cook and eat, four patrolling soldiers approached me. To their surprise someone, in this season, camped in Jieshan Daban. I was so nervous and afraid they were the people to block my journey because I was caught and deported from the desolate land last year. Luckily the four soldiers did not know my destination and were very kind to me. After they left, I immediately packed my stuff and pushed my bike into the depths of the unpopulated area just in case anything unexpected happened.The bike was very heavy due to the provisions and hard to control. There was even a quite small hill that I had to remove my bike panniers to get over it. This really struck me because this happened even the path was still the hardship one at the moment and I could not imagine what I would do once I entered the uncertain, endless wilderness. Until now I had not met anyone, even the nomadic pastoralists. I remembered there were quite a few of them roaming at the edge of the northern Tibetan plateau last year. All of these indicated it was not the good pasture season in such low temperature and strong winds. Around 16km there was a sheep cote, where I passed it last year, east of Lungmu Co. I was exhausted at this point so that I decided to camp in here and to rest my head. After arranging tent everything I went out to look for the wetland discovered by Duola and Liumeng last year. I was determined to find it.There were many hot springs in the wetland which were underground water with a constant temperature. The wetland therefore became an ideal habitat for some fishes and weeds under such harsh weather, which was the very unique land feature of terrain in this over 5200m highland.Perpetual snow in the valley blown to corn shape by strong windsThis wetland was discovered by Duola and Liumeng. The workers at a nearby mine did not know it and I too missed it last yearUnderground water with a constant temperature, an ideal habitat for some fishes and weeds under such icy weather 感謝大伙兒支持和加分，不一一回復了。特別感謝多啦，希望能有機會一起喝酒吃肉。 Day 2 (April 21), 0km, Camping5192mBlustering gale all night, up and down like ocean waves. The next day rather than continuing to travel, I stayed inside the sheep cote, hesitating and pondering over. Indeed, there were so many problems before this journey;I did not have sufficient physical preparation;the load had already reached its limitation; I still coughed a lot;the weather was so extreme and cold. All in all, I did not think this journey was well prepared and I did not have confidence in completing this journey mentally and physically. To do, or not to do, it was the question. Similarly I did not have confidence in my facilities, not knowing whether all of them would work functionally or not. The fact was one of the rivets got broken again and the front rack came loose. In the afternoon, I replaced all the rivets of the panniers with screws I had prepared before. This was an excellent job I had done which gave me no further troubles throughout my whole journey. I also re-adjusted the front rack. However I did not think it would definitely all right because I did not have a tool to do it. When the darkness descended,I made up my mind to continue my journey, which, of course, was not beyond any imagination. Orchid-like weedsSmall springs everywhere, clear and chillyA thin layer of ice covering the fresh spring water The sheep cote, it was the door under the sleeping bag, which was in the same place as last year, everything looked like yesterdayThe wetland at duskLungmu Co at dusk. You could hear the gigantic sound of wind if the picture had a sound Day 3 (April 22), 52.4km, Camping 5145mGot up in the morning, could not put everything into the bags. Without much choice I had to throw away three portions of tsampa, elbow pads, and crampons. Following the road of the lead-zinicmine I found the side path to enter the wilderness, which was on the riverbed and very hard to see. I missed this side path last year so that I had to take a short cut into the wilderness directly then. That was why I had taken extra care to find the side path. The following journey was to get over a big hill, which lay 5275m above sea level and was the highest point of my whole journey. Around 2 o'clock in the afternoon, I passed the side path leading to Orba Co and started a journey which was complete strange to me. I ate a piece of pilot breads, which was frozen like rocks so that I had to use my spade to crush it. At 6 o'clock in the evening, I had pushed plus rode my bicycle for about 32 km. I reckoned I should have been able to double this if I did no carry such heavy load. The wind became stronger and stronger. I opened the parasail kits and tested it. The result was far beyond what I expected. With the aid of the strong wind I was just like flying over the wilderness. After 8 o'clock in the evening, I started to observe the water Source and to get ready to camp. Map showed there were successive springs along the path and assembled to puddles. But I had overestimated the water source here in this land and in this season there were endless wilderness inside the valley, where I could not see a single drop of water. As it became darker and darker, I felt a little bit nervous which resulted in three spokes of the parasail broken and became a useless rubbish. Anyway, it helped me to move forward 20km more which benefited me a lot later on. When time approached 9.30 pm, it was almost completely dark. I had to lie my bike on the ground and went on to try to find water on the north side of the valley. This was a wide and flat sandy land, where I could not see any ditches there and further was complete darkness. I returned to get my GPS to look up the contours and found the south part of the valley was closer to a hill so I took the way. Finally I found a piece of ice in a ditch. I smashed about 20litre of ice. The ice was quite shallow scattered with sheep poo. On my way back, my eyes were hurt by strong winds, which got me a couple of days to recover. It was nearly 23 o'clock after I set up the tent. It also took about 40 mins to melt the ice. I was so tired and my appetite was completely spoiled. I then had a little bit of milk. I had never expected thing would go like this, it was so distressing. Streams along the path, ice everywhereThe river flew into Matou Hu, in whose north part there was a satellite lake, a wonderful ice-skating court It took 40mins to melt the ice in midnight Day 4 (April 23), 31km, Camping 5028mA cloudy day with gusts. From now and again, hails chased me from behind. Sunny spell. Heavy sandy land made me have to push my bike. At 3pm, I arrived at Luxing Hu, where there was a house made of clay. This was the last permanent building of my journey. Last year, Duola and Liumeng once lived in this house for three days without meeting anybody. It seemed it was the same but the truck parking in front of the house made me worry about. I went to the sheep cote first to check over, where there were only a few lambs following me everywhere I went later on. This made me feel warm in my heart. I observed farther places using my binoculars but could not see any people or sheeps. After making sure there were no people around I opened the locked door using a screwdriver. The living room was very clean. There were two boxes of beverages on the ground and a string of cured lamb legs hanging over in the interior room. A pot of water was on the top of the stove, lukewarm, which indicated the host must be not far away from his home. I filled up my water bag and left the house. I also put the screws back to the door in order not to leave any trace of my visiting. I then took a spanner from the toolbox of the truck, which gave me great help for the rest of the journey.I left the house as quickly as possible. After last year's experience, the nomadic pastoralists were the last people I wanted to meet. A few hundred meters away from the house, the vehicle traces were fading fast. Even downhill, I had to push rather than to ride because of the heavy loose sand. From the route point of view, only after Luxing Hu it was the real unpopulated land. After many days, I thought of the lamb legs from time to time. It was pity that I then had plenty of provisions and the bike was too heavy to carry anything more. Continue to melt the ice under the morning sunshine, all of the sheep poo had been removed carefullyCamping site, the little hill over there was the place where I got the ice last nightThe house by the Luxing Hu, empty, the last permanent building I saw throughout my journeyDay 5 (April 24), 19.8km, Camping 4951mSet off at 10.30 in the morning, the weather was similar to yesterday. Probably this road was the high plain or somewhere the wind passed so that it was so windy. The average wind speed was degree 6 but could reach degree 9 in the blick of an eye. The road was still full of sand and very heavy to walk on it. My eyes became worse under such harsh weather. About three o'clock in the afternoon, I saw something in my right, looked like antenna. I went closer to see what it was and found out it was an iron tower (the triangulation station). In 1970s, a joint team from Chinese three military regiments entered this area doing research. They have left a lot of triangulation stations and benchmarks, which I had the priviledge to see them today.At dusk, I approached to a spring by the Bungdag Co, which flew into the frozon lake. The sand and soil, brought by the strong wind, scattered on the surface of the ice all over the lake. There were so many cracks around the icey surface of the lake. I geussed it must be caused by the springs under the water rather than by melted ice. In the west of the Bungdag Co was the side path leading to Keriya Pass, where a SUV could reach directly. I had looked out any vehicle Tracks but failed. The cloudy sky started to snow. I set up the tent comfortably because I knew that I was safe having such a sweet spring beside me.Triangulation station erected by scientists from the joint research team on Chang Tang of three military regiments in 1971[size=+0]The gap between water and ice in Bungdag Co, I guessed there must be some springs under the lakeThe storm just above the ground, a chaotic darkness[size=+0]Icy Bungdag Co,one of the four biggest lakes in Northern Tibet, wild ducks flying over this vastness and lonenessSnowing at any time, should not happen so frequently like this in this seasonDay 6 (April 25), 4.3km, Camping 5002mWeathering landforms everywhere around this area. Spongy volcanic rocks could be found easily. I pushed my bike turning around a small hill, seeing a big river, the Yinshui He, flowing from Orba Co into Bungdag Co, which I had been to its upstream last year. It was also a passage for animal migration. The downstream of the river was extremely wide and broad. The thickess of the ice layer could reach one meter with the main stem in the middle course of the river, very deep. There were a few springs along the river, sweet and clear.I only went forward a little bit more than 4km but I had walked more than 20km for finding my way. It was not possible to cross the main stem, let alone the north bank of Bungdad Co. What I could only do was to try to find a shallow place to cross. But the southern area was a even larger piece of wetland and forced the road turn towards west. I spent a couple of hours but failed to find a good point to cross the river. In the afternoon, I decided to follow the edge of the wetland. When I reached the hill foot, the wetland finally disappeared. Around this area, there were clearly volcanic feature of terrain and I even found traces of pasturing and cairns made from volcanic rock.Here was the last pasturing trace I found throughout my journey, I guessed it was a summer pasture area. After this, there was no clear sign of human activities in this vast wilderness. I had been looking for my ways until it was dark. I made up my mind where to go TOMOrrow. The terrain here looked like Yardang landforms, as well as volcanic landforms The Yinshui He river from Orba CoSprings scattered all over the river bank, painted green by lovely algaeThe river was very deep. The mixture of green and amber colour showed the sand and mud carried by the melted iceThick layer of ice, sunken surface caused by strong gustsThe south course of the Yinshui He, countless small streams. To the right was the wetlandLooking for ways in the east, a trace of pasturing and the cairn made from spongy volcanic rocksMy camp, opposite to the hillDay 7 (April 26), 11km, Camping 5009mI moved forward to the direction I found yesterday, turning around the wetland and walking toward east. At 2pm, I was blocked by the zigzag Yinshui He again and I had no choice but to cross it. The river was about 700m wide, covered by ice which appeared very different. The hanging ice, the folding ice, the piling-up ice, the icy puddle, and the sleet were everywhere along the river bank. Having noticed all of these, I reckoned the river would be receding at dusk, which was why there were so many different shapes and forms of ice. I put my slipper on, going into the main stream of the river. I found there were at least three different courses of the river, the thickness of the surface ice varied and the river water reached above my knees. I sighed there would be no way back once I crossed this river. There are many ways in one's life too, you can only take it once and you will no long have the courage to repeat it.I pushed the bike crossing the river. Some of the ice was a bit soft, jamming the tyres so that I had to use my feet to break them first. Some of the ice was a bit thick but with half-melted underneath, sticking the the bike completely, some of the ice was half-water half-ice with a sandy riverbed, which was really hard to pass. I had to remove all of the panniers at the last stage of the crossing. I spent the whole four hours to cross the river, my legs got many bloody cuts. At 6pm, the surface ice was almost disappeared completely, the river level rapidly rising to a chaotic status. I thought if I hesitated a little bit at that time, I could not have the courage to cross this river under such circumstances. The river bank was unimaginably sandy and was quite steep. I had to unloaded the panniers again to reach the top of the bank. By the time of sunset, the weather became exceptionally good. The sunlight from the descending sun, the blue sky, the faint moon, .... I liked such a colorful and peaceful Chang Tang and very much enjoyed my camp and myself bathed in such beautiful colour.The ice like this was very thin and suspended, far away from the main stemHard surface with half-melted underneath, the soft sand at the botton was most scaryThe ice like this could easily jam the wheels, hard to get it outI had to unload the panniersChaotic water and terrible hails turned up in no timeThe Chang Tang at the moment liked it used to be,a mixture of cold and warm tones under the golden setting sun Day 8 (April 27), 14.6km, Camping 5112mLast night, I forgot to bring in the odometer, which was out of order due to the coldness in midnight. Since then I used GPS to check the mileage. The digital thermometer was no longer working. I had to use mercury thermometer to collect data. Night temperatures were basically between –15℃—–20℃ while the temperature inside my tent was about –10℃. The advantage of the integrated tent was that it limited the ventilation so to keep warm inside. However, it got clearly disadvantage of heavy condensation and dew. Every morning, there was plenty of frost inside the tent so that I had to put my hood on First Before fully getting dressed. The winds in Chang Tang finally became consistent with the pattern I had researched the other day no or very tiny wind in the morning, strong wind started after 2pm, and then at around 8pm its strength was reduced again. The accuracy of this prediction was about 80%.The road was very bad today. I walked whole afternoon in an ancient riverbed and it was so difficult that I had to use all of my strengths to move a small step forward and then to stop to breath, slower than a snail. After five hours' struggling, my eyes got wet when I saw the grassy river bank. Finally! The nightmare was over.Cold and clear morningHeavy morning condensation in the interior, a lot of frost to clearSuch dawning sunlight indicated a cloudy day ahead Day 9 (April 28), 18km, 5072mIn the morning I entered a range of sandy roads which were so terrible. The solar panel specially designed for GPS got short circuited. After checking it was found to be the diode got damaged. Luckily I got a replacement. Because the GPS was exclusively supplied by a solar panel so that it was no longer a problem for the power supplement of GPS. In a period of 70 days, I did replace the battery once, which saved me a lot of alkaline batteries. I did have another solar panel of 5.4 W which was used specifically for 7.5V Camera, DV and other digital facilities. Unlike water, I had never been short of power.At 7pm in the evening, I arrived at Pur Co. The surface of this lake was very odd the ice by the river bank rose and the river bank was broken, I reckoned that was due to the strong winds. The ice there was mingled with something yellow, could be the stain of alkali. There were many wild yaks on the other side of the lake. There could be two brown bears but I could not be for certain. On the east side of the lake, there was a peninsula leading to the centre of the lake. I camped just opposite to the peninsula. At night , I smashed the ice to get drinking water, which tasted alkali. For the first time I cooked the cereals, which was brought completely by accident. This was just because I found there was a little bit of extra space when I was in Nagri packing the stuff for this journey so that I bought two packs of cereals. It tasted disgusting, probably there was too much alkali in the water. I threw away half of it. Later I realised that probably I subconsciously felt that the provisions was so heavy. I would rather make it lighter at any cost.Dry all my stuff in the morning sun, a routine matterA faint dusk in Pur CoThe river bank pushed up by ice and opened like zipper by gustsThe pushed up surface of the iceThe place where I got my drinking water, a thin layer of ice behind the ablation corns The moment just before sun set, glittering Pur Co, nothing was the same差點兒沒找到俺自己的帖子，原來變色了。多謝各位鼓勵。 Day 10 (April 29), 16km, Camping 5141mIn the morning, I walked around the north bank of the Pur Co， where it were continuous ups and downs sprinkled with light yellow sprouts across the sparse grassland. The wild yaks clustered into small groups. All of a sudden, there was a group of five of them running towards me, blowing a huge cloud of dust with the power of thunderbolts,I believed that anyone who did not know the characters of the wild yaks must be frightened to death under such circumstances. The fact was the wild yaks in groups never injured people. Rushing to you just to show you its territory. When they approached people at certain distance, they would turn sharply and run away, and then stopped somewhere high to stare at you. You can not imagine that the wild yaks were very cautious animals compared with its almost one ton of weight. Their first reaction, when meeting people, was to raise their tails, the front hooves rubbing against the ground, the horns pointing forward, the eyes redden, and the long body hair shaking, all of which showed their determination to fight.This was the warning sign that you should retreat. However, you should realise that this was only a gesture that they were afraid of you and wanted to scare you away. The thing was that if you were not afraid of them and moved forward, they would run away in no time. There were only some mad yaks attacking people, which was really rare to happen. In Chang Tang, an experienced driver know that it is very dangerous to pass directly from two or three lonely wild yaks. They always tried to avoid confronting them directly. If this was not possible, they would lit a cigarette, smoking, to wait until the yaks walked away themselves. This was because the wild yaks really could attack vehicles, which was not completely rumors. I once asked them why I had not been attacked. They told me that because my bike was so small they would not be bothered to attack it. My own experience was that approaching a wild yak very slowly, do not look into its eyes, and ignored what it was doing. As long as it moved forward a little bit, just stop and give the yaks a little bit of time to think. Because if you forced the yak, it could be themost dangerous animal in the world and nothing could stop them killing. Even a gunshot could not kill it but only left a small hole in its skin. In the past, the nomads living near this land would use yaks' skin as chopping board which was very much endurable. At noon, I lost my balacLAVA, which was brand new and I had never used it once. I could not be bothered to go back tofind it. This resulted in that I had to have my fleece hat day and night in the rest of my journey, which did not provide fully protection from the sun in the plateau. But somehow I was all right, perhaps because my skin is similar to those of yaks, lol. At around half past one, I found a deserted Jeep, upside down. I felt it could be there for years and it could be the vehicle of someillegal HUNTERs. Nowadays, we have wildlife conservation reserves in Chang Tang and the animals here are well protected. However, some people kills the wild yaks to sell them as the domestic yak's meat. In general, it is worth 10,000 Chinese yuans for a single wild yak. Therefore many people take the risk to make money. They often enter the unpopulated areas to hunt and their activities can reach 200 km in diameter. This is why the wild yaks in the deep wilderness are less afraid of people than thoseat the boundaries of the Chang Tang region.There once happened that a wild yak mother revenged its baby's murder in the Altun mountains. Its horns pierced the killer's chest and held his body over its head for more than ten days, which was very touching.Around 3pm, I walked out of the Pur basin. The next point was Hong Shan Daban and then it was the Yueya Hu by the Toze Gangri. At this time I found a vehicle track from south to north. I checked over but could not find the way where they had gone. I took my map, GPS, and compass, climbing up a small hill to estimate the location of Hong Shan Daban. The mountain was very round and it was hard to find the mountain pass. After determining the location of the Daban, I moved straightforward. When I passed a messy grassland, I saw something that I was reluctant to see more than hundreds of wild yaks' head scattered all over, which was definitely the scene of the illegal hunting. After that it was a very long ancient river bed with soft sand slowly rising until the foot of the mountain.There are some spines on the surface of the tongues of wild yaks, which are used by nomads in this area as combs. They use them from their teens to the time when their hair becomes silver.The deserted Jeep, could be left by illegal hunters years agoThe slaughtered wild yaks with the wheel size heads. Some of the skulls were chopped into half. Why was that? Could be taken away for making combs?My camp at the foot of the Daban underthe lingering golden rays of the setting sun. Tomorrow's weather must be wonderful, I reckoned Day 11(April 30)， 20.4km, Camping 5120mThe surface of the road leading to Hong Shan Daban was very hard, most of them were small rocks, sort of gravels, plus a quite long downhill slope, I pushed my bike more than 20km for the first time after Luxing Hu. The mountain pass was quite flat, just like a broad ridge, it was 5256m above the sea level. Upon arriving at the pass, Toze Gangri of 6356m was in my sight clearly, very much round and there was no back bone like normal snow covered mountains. Most of the snow mountains in Chang Tang looked like this probably it was due to the geological movements. There were quite a few chirus or Tibetan antelopes in the valley but I was not interested in this kind of animals anymore after I witnessed a large scale of migration of such animals last year elsewhere.The herbivorous animals here are very quick to reach its original size of the population, such as wild yaks, chirus, Tibetan gazelle, pika, and marmot. When you go into the depths of the Chang Tang, you could hardly be surpised by the sudden appearance of the chirus because they are so common in here. At this time of year, the chirus have already male-female parted. You could see many pregnant female chirus but hardly see any males. According to recent research, Zonag Co is not the only lake for breeding. There are at least four of them in the whole Chang Tang. Zonag Co, Tuzi Hu, Heishi Beihu, and another lake I can not remember. I think there must be more than four of them and most of the populations do not migrant long way like most people used to think. They generally migrant from south to north between Central Mountains and Kunlun Mountains.The chirus looks very timid but are very curious about outside world. They are not really afraid of people, particularly in the depth of the Chang Tang. The nearest distance we can approach is about 30m. They just stare at you calmly and think who you are and why you move so slow. They would run in front of you. Look like they are afraid of you but the fact is they are playing with you. A man's own character shapes his fortune. This is of course suit for animals too. The chirus are the typical one. They have a super speed and a pair of sharp antlers. If they are crazy, three of them work together could easily kill a wolf. But as you might have known, their antlers are just for fighting to mate with females.Down the Daban there was a very steep and straight road, I tried to ride the bicycle but ended up with falling over. The front rack came loose and one of the pannier flew into valley. The foot of the mountain was the Yueya Hu covered by ice, which was alake full of heavy metal elements. Along the lake bank there were many stark rocks very much weathered, lining up just like castles or houses. This made me stop to investigate what they were from time to time, I did understand they were just rocks though but they were so real like the figures of real people. On of them even made me hide in a ditch, observing them again and again using my binoculars. There were also many black volcanic rocks. All in all, the features of this area were really unusual.Passed over the Yueya Hu, it was an endless ancient lake bed. What my GPS showed was this area was a big lake like tentacles. I looked around, it was endless wilderness without a piece of ice and a drop of water. Roughly, I estimated this lake bed was about 1200 square meters. I had to tell you that Chang Tang was a place where there was no high-resolution map. The marks in the map often were some kind of memory. Just like this ancient lake bed under my feet, may be it was full of water a few years ago. Who knows. Pushing the bike in such an endless lake bed was very easy to get lost. My mind was in a chaotic status too.The migration of the animals, photo taken last year The road rising up to the Daban, full of gravels, very hard, ideal for pushing your bikeThe Yueya Hu gazed at by the round and smooth Toze Gangri. At a glimpse, could you tell which was mountain, which was cloud?Ancient lake bed. The white stains were the alkali, look like ice. About wildlife (part 1)Declaration Personal experience for reference onlyDangerous wild animals and their threats to human beings are a ever-LASTING subject for those backpackers travelling in the wild.In Chang Tang, for example, there are two kinds of deadly animals, one is wolves and the other is brawn bears. As substitutes, wild yaks and crows might be dangerous to you in some circumstances that I will come back to this a little bit later on. As for how to protect yourself against these dangerous animals, I think the primary point is you do not try to hurt them because the emotions of human and animals are same instinctively. [Wolves]Throughout my journey, I met wolves a total of seven times, in which I confronted them five times. As you might have known that wolves have become more and more solitary animals, it is very rare they live in a large group nowadays. Please allow me off the point a little bit and talk about the ecological problems in Chang Tang. The problem is now not the decrease of the number of the chirus but the imbalance of the whole food chain, more specifically, the number of the animals on the higher trophic levels of the food chain has not yet reached its ideal level which results in this kind of imbalance. Particularly, the pikas and the marmots who have lost their predators rapidly expanse which results in the desertification of Chang Tang. As early as the middle of last century, wolves were the dominant predators in the vast wilderness. They became a threat not only to other preys but also nomads pasturing in this land. Therefore, the then government called on people to cull back the population of the wolves in Chang Tang, which resulted in the current situation directly. The last official record about wolves attacking humans was around 1970s, which happened in Bamaoqiongzong. A team of secientists was surrounded by a group of wolves and they had to shoot them using guns. Of course, at present in Chang Tang, wolves are absolutely lonely.In this traverse, the first time I encountered a pair of wolves, one of them staying in front of me pretending to attack me while the other staying behind me. This is the standard attacking strategy of wolves. First, you should not be nervous which can be easily detected by the predators. Second, you should not retreat even an inch because this means you are the prey rather than the predator. Do not make any large movement, of course you could take a picture if you feel safe to do so. You must look into its eyes for a few minutes or even half an hour. When the wolves can not work out who you are and consider you are not posing any danger to them, then they will leave. You should remember that wolves in this land do not lack of food and it is much easy for them to catch a pika than a human. Even if being hungry, they would evaluate how easy to get you done, What you need to do is to show them that you are not interested in them and you are not afraid of them at all, let alone to show your ID card to them. As for the wolves family, really, I have not heard for ages. If you really have an encounter with them and they have no other choice, then it definitely depends on your forture. In fact, for so many year, it has been very rare to happen that wolves kill human. But the rumours are still there, in particular, the road connecting Xinjiang and Tibet.The nearest encounter with a wolf throughout my journey, no conflict at all[Brown Bears]Brown bears are real dangerous animals to human. Every year there are some accidents happened in some regions of Xinjiang on the north side of Kunkun Mountains and steppes in Northern Tibet. More than that the bears could attack your house, smash your windows, and eat your sheep. Therefore, in Northern Tibet some local councils give subsidies to the pastorarists for compensating the losses due to the bears because they are not allow to fight back and kill the bears except their lives are in great danger. Once there was a nomad taught me a method to protect yourself from bears. He told me to pick up a stick to feed the bear and the bear thinks the stick is your hand which tastes disgusting. So the bear would leave. It was so funny but the reality is to find a stick in this vast wilderness is just like you win the lottery.Bears are omonivorous animal who are generally not interested in human flesh. You can find that in most of accidents, the bears did not eat any of the human flesh rather they just smashed them for kind of fun that we could not understand. For the reason why bears kill human, one explanation is the conflict between human and wildlife in this extreme ecological environment. The nomads invade the habitats of the bears, which results in these conflicts. On the other hand, it might be because bears have quite high IQ so that they think it is much easy to kill a sheep in the cote rather than to kill a pika in the wild.I have met bears five times in my traverse, in two cases we were very close to each other. I had even walked with one of them for quite a while, just like we had a date for a walk. The fact is it is not that terrible like you might imagine. The same rules for dealing with wolves apply to bears. Never provoke dangerous animals. A bear can run at a speed of 40km/h, do you think you can compete this in a highland 5,000m above sea level?However, there is a situation where it is really dangerous, that is the encounter. It is not easy to control your instinctive reaction to the external dangers. Last year once I turned around a hill, there was a bear just in front of me. The bear of course was frightened by me with its front legs holding up, waving in the air and roaring. At that time I sat on the ground, ignoring it. The bear then left in a few minutes. Chang Tang is a vast land so that this is not that easy to happen. But if it does happen, really only God can bless you.The nearest encounter with a bear throughout my journey. This bear disappeared in a herd of wild yaks, which I had tried hard to spot, really weird About wildlife (part 2)Declaration personal experience for reference only.[Wild Yaks]I have talked about quite a few, like in the post of Day10. I will no longer talk about it.This was the funniest encounter with a solitary wild yak, who did not warn me. If I sat down, it sat down too. If I moved forward, it stopped. Could not imagine what it was thinking about.[Crows]Crows are dangerous only when you fall unconscious in the wilderness. Of course they will be the first to taste your flesh in that case. Unlike their cousinsliving in urban areas, the crows in Chang Tang have a larger body like eagles. When they fly over your head, you could feel like it is a piece of cloud. They are scavengers but like fresh meat too. It once happened that a baby was killed by crows relentlessly, let alone the lambs got killed by them. Once a nomad asked me for fireworks to scare the crows away. (They are sacred birds not to be killed by human)It is easy to defend yourself against crows, that is to keep fighting, never fall in the wilderness.A short break attracted the crows. Of course, they were miscalculating this time, photo taken last year[Strategies Adopted]At the time when I met the four soldiers in Jieshan Daban, they said there were many dangerous animals in the Northern Tibet and asked me if I had brought a shotgun. I think if they knew that I would enter Chang Tang they would definitely check if I really have a shotgun. The so-called defence facilities I brought with me were the fireworks and pepper spray. I had never used them. The fireworks were ruined and thrown away when I crossed a river and I had never opened the pepper spray. I even had never thought about this when camping in the night. The reason was I did not feel the needs. During the day time whenever I met any animals I had never touched the knife I had brought. I did not have anything to defend myself when I walked out to investigate the route. The Chang Tang is really a vast area so as to be very easy to detect anything strange.By the way, you'd better to avoid mating season's animals because even tamed rabbits could be aggressive in mating season.The thing is even if you have a gun, it is not very much helpful when bears attack you. Therefore, your attitude is most important.I can tell you something. Dogs are more dangerous than these wild animals. I had been chased by Tibetan dogs, pounced on by dogs in mating season, also besieged by a group of dogs. I really feel it is more useful to know how to defend a dog.Declaration again The above experience is from Chang Tang only. Of course, the more you prepared, the better. Day 12 (May 1), 23.8km, Camping 5117mToday was May 1 -- the Labour Day, I had been walking in some lake area marked in the map but clearly dried up. The lake basin was flat and hard so that I even pushed my bike more than 20km. Let it be the special treat for my May Day. After midday it became cloudy with growing winds. Since the Yueya Hu that I passed yesterday, there were no big lakes until Yanghu Co (My route would be between Jianshui Hu and Bairab Co), there was even no light alkaline water to drink so I had to pay extra attention not to miss any possible drinking water supply to fill up my water bag. There were a few very small lakes but all were alkaline puddles which was very shallow, whose depth was no more than the length of a half-finger. These puddles were covered with a hard shell of the mixture of salt and ice which smelled stinking and decaying when getting closer, must be toxic water I supposed. On the shore of this type of small lakes it was muddy soil and very hard to get closer.There was no sign of tundra at all.It was almost half past six when I found some snow corns in a ditch, which was the only drinking water supply of the day. There was a thin layer of melted ice on the surface of the ground near the snow corn, which was very hard to collect and was contaminated by the alkali. The snow corn was the yet melted thick snow, which was shaped like a corn by wind. The snow was quite hard and dry,porous like ice. I crushed a few snow corns, putting them into the water bag.They would be my drinking water tonight. These snow corns were the only one in today's wilderness, I reckoned the reason why they were not melted like others was the soil underneath contained large amount of ice blocks which acted as a freezer.Very strong gale in the night, it was hard to bear the sound of the vibration of the tent. Small single tent was good in the sense that it would not be blown away as long as you stayed inside. But you had to be very careful to set up the tent. I once did not pay much attention when doing so, the tent was blown away by winds, and rolling over like a Giant lantern ... I ran after it, got it back, and was exhausted. In general, it is not possible to fix the tent completely using tent pegs because they were not very much effective like large tents. It was snowing around 23 o'clock, the winds were howling from north,then the falling snow flakes landed on my tent quietly, I finally felt at peace and fell asleep. The flat ancient lake basin, assisting me walking more than 20kmSmall lake en route, toxic waterSnow corns, the only drinking water supply today Day 13 (May 2), 0km, Camping 5117mWaking up in the morning and opening the tent, the heavy snow outside must be sent by the God to force me have a break for the May Day. After lying in for a while, getting up and walking on the snowy ground out I went to have a look around. As first sight there were a herd of chirus. They were plainly to be spotted because they looked like a clear black straight line in the while snow. I returned to get my camera and then followed them to take some pictures. But they were very much alert and kept a quite long distance from me. I felt they were a group of pregnant females, instinctively protecting themselves from any potential harm. I was no longer short of water, the snow gave me a precious supply of drinking water. The problem was that they were very petrol consuming. I tool 8.6 litre of petrol and the oil stove was Duola's MSR. The pot was of 1.5 litre, mainly for boiling water. After several days' experiments, I found that the liquid water needed 16mins and 14-15mins to boil in the morning and evening, respectively. For ice, it would take 35-40mins while for snow it took 45-50mins. Melting snow was a very time and petrol consuming process so if I had a choice between snow and light alkaline water, most of time I would go with the latter. Lying inside the tent, listening to musics,I smoked a cigarette while gazing at the more and more chirus around me. Because it was very cold I had been wearing my shoes all the time. Now I just put my bare feet under the warm sun for some fresh air. I found three cuts in my hands and one in my sole. The cuts were about 4cm in length, looked terrible but it was actually all right really. Half of my toes were injured by to much walking, quite painful. I fetched my medicine bag and found I only got four patches of plasters, a serious mistake. One of the cuts in my hand had never been cured until I was out of this desolate land so as to feel like this finger would drop from my hand at any time. The others quickly recovered in a few days then new cuts appeared elsewhere. This process occurred periodically. I felt that it was somewhat related to the cold, dry weather and the lack of vitamins. The snow rapidly disappeared, which is unique phenomenon in Chang Tang. Because of the low air humidity and the high radiation from the sun, the snow was evaporating very fast, much quicker than the melting speed. Owing to this, the ground was generally still dry after the snow disappeared. In most cases, it would be only 2/5 left in the afternoon around 2 to 3 o'clock and small patches of ground could be seen. It would be completely all right for walking the next day. On the third day there could be some snow left in somewhere the sunlight hard to reach. So generally it could give you three days of water supply after a heavy snow like this. One of the pannier was broken, the most expensive one from deuter series, supposed to be waterproof. I will come back to it at some point later. Everything was covered by snow, no way out Lying in the middle of Chang Tang, listening to Tian Zhen's songs, and smoking Baisha cigarettes, what else can you ask for? The pregnant female chirus in migration, probably heading to Heishi Beihu to give bi

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